“To come down to my own experience, my companion and I, for sometimes I have a companion, take pleasure in fancying ourselves knights of a new, or rather an old, order, - not Equestrians or Chevaliers, not Ritters or Riders, a still more ancient and honorable class, I trust.”
- Henry David Thoreau, “On Walking”
It’s 9 p.m., and I’m sitting in a hotel near Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. It’s a Tuesday, but the streets are filled with a mix of dudes-on-business and senior citizens. The drive last night from Portland was really long, and, according to Don Spitler, bus driver, was shrouded in fog. The past several days were beautiful and busy and tonight is a night to put the old legs up on the old real bed and reminisce, repine and ruminate a bit on the last week or so.
Thoreau claimed that walkers have a special order all their own, and so, thinking of him and of the last 15 hours on the bus, I went out walking tonight. The air was clear and you could smell the ocean which never ceases to amaze me in a place as packed and full of other smells as this city. I pointed up the hill away from the water and up towards the action going on in the heart of North Beach. Richard Brautigan lived here and his picture next to the statue of Benjamin Franklin is on the cover of his book, A Confederate General from Big Sur. I passed all the usual stuff, the strip clubs that look like steakhouses, the takeaways lit with an almost aspirin light, City Lights and Vesuvio’s. The people out tonight are not out on dates but rather comfortable couples who seem to know each other well. The big slop house restaurants for tourists are mostly empty while the regulars up in this area seem to have their usual places staked out. Walking by the windows and the cordoned-off patios I notice that these couples don’t order bottles of wine but seem to order house wine by the glass. These are not people trying to impress one another.
Thinking about this, I stepped out into the street, where, wonder of wonders, there didn’t seem to be any street. My foot caught on some kind of pylon, and as I fell I noticed that I was falling on to the tram tracks. “How cheesy,” I thought to myself. “Dead on the tram tracks.” After all these songs about trains, to be wiped out by a train’s cousin, no matter how iconic a landmark of San Francisco it is, would be a back-handed irony. I waited for just a moment to get my breath and thankfully there was no tram close by. I got up and dusted myself off and started stating the obvious to passerby as people do when they do things like inexplicably fall. “I fell,” I say to a group of Japanese tourists as they cross in the cross walk all around me. I was fine except for a cut on my leg, but i was reminded how hungry and tired I was so I headed back to the hotel which is where I am now, sitting back drinking a whiskey and thinking about walking and if, while more noble, I am any bit less of a danger to myself as a walker than as a simple Ritter.
As we’ve headed west the drives have gotten longer. Not for us. The 20-minute pot-hole buffeting buffet on I-95. Out here it looks as if the sky is getting more than its fair 180 degrees, and the road is straight and grey. I’ve always wanted to walk across the country and maybe someday I will, but for the present I was happy to be squirreled away in the bus and getting some rest before the next day’s show in Boulder, Colorado.
I’ve been in Colorado a lot this year. Twice with Madeleine Peyroux, once with Hilary Hahn and once with my band. Now we’re coming back to Boulder and the crowd has grown pretty considerably so I’m glad we had a place to get some rest. And rest we did. So that as the noon bell tolled, knights of old we stormed into Boulder, Colorado, hearts afire and full of vim and whatnot to play the Fox Theater. The theater is a big old place hollowed out for lots of folks to fit in, and I think we got about 800 in there and it was nice and sweaty and happy. I smelled quite a few botanical effuviua out in the crowd and the folks in the crowd seemed fairly amped up and ready to go. Jesse Sykes and the Sweet Hereafter played first and it was such a pleasure to hear them live after listening to their records. What a beautiful show.
That night we drove to Salt Lake City for a day off. It was funny waking up in the city of the Saints in the parking lot of an adult store, but that’s exactly where we woke up. That morning I did a couple hours of interviews over the phone and got some exercise and everyone did laundry. Clean laundry on the road is true wealth. Clean socks are worth more than their weight in gold and I believe are the sole item that keep us recognizable from our closest simian relatives.
Freshly attired, Sam, Liam and I headed out from the hotel and walked towards Temple Square. The LDS church is the fastest growing church in America and the richest. It’s also completely home grown and its spiritual roots draw as much from the American landscape as from any text.
The Flag of Utah tells us quite a bit about the State. Two dates are on display. The first, 1847, is the year in which the Mormons led by Brigham Young founded the city of Salt Lake. The other date, 1896, is the year in which the state of Utah was officially entered into the Union. Between 1847 and 1896 the Utah territory (named Deseret by the Mormons) grew and prospered slowly until it was given statehood after repealing its stance on polygamy.
In the foreground beneath a bald eagle is a shield depicting a beehive. In the mid-1840’s Brigham Young and the Mormon pioneers left Nauvoo, Illinois behind and headed west, looking for a place where they wouldn’t be bothered and could practice their creed. The land was harsh and prickly and there was a whole lotta mountain and desert going on, so to survive in this landscape, teamwork was necessary, and that was one thing the Mormons had in spades. It is little wonder that the state flag of Utah depicts a beehive and that “Deseret,” a term Joseph Smith claimed meant “honeybee” was used to refer to the territory before it became Utah at statehood.
We left for Boise and the home state at 2 a.m., and at 6 a.m., a bolt broke that kept tension on the alternator belt of the bus. Don Spitler got out of the bus and, working towards a Nobel prize in several categories in the snow of a mountain pass, used a vice and a sprocket wrench to substitute for the missing bolt. He then drove 80 miles into Burley, Idaho at 30 miles an hour and found a (I kid you not) bolt store. “You’ll go nuts over our bolts”, said the sign, and it’s true. Don got us to Boise on time for me to play my first show of two that day, at the great Record Exchange, and for that I want to thank him.
The Record Exchange was the first place I ever played in Boise and that was last year. It was an in-store and it was recorded and later put out as a little live EP that I am quite fond of. This time around the place was packed to the gills, and I played about 40 minutes and then signed for a couple of hours before heading to the Egyptian Theater where the band was sound checking. You haven’t seen a place like the Egyptian Theater. When the lights are out and it’s pitch black, you catch vague traces of light off of the gilded mummies and sarcophagi and hieroglyphs that frame what was once a vaudeville theater and now plays movies and hosts music acts.
The crowd at the show that night was the most insane I have ever played to. People didn’t even bother to sit down but were up out of their seats from the second song and never sat down. I had to concentrate to hear myself over all the other voices in the crowd. It was a beautiful, beautiful night and one I will never forget. It was such a privilege to have my band play such a special show for their first time in Boise and I want to thank everyone who made it possible.
The band were not the only newcomers to Boise. Jim Carrol, writing for the Irish Times, also met us up at the show and got on the bus with us for the ride to Seattle.
October 21st is my birthday and I had it this year in Seattle. It was great to be able to hang out with my family here. That night at the show my mom got up on stage and passed out 60 cupcakes (as many as she could carry in two boxes) to the crowd. I had one before playing. Kathleen and I watched the white boxes crowd surf around the room as people shared the cupcakes. Rock and Roll! I’m sure there are pictures out there and if anyone has one of that I’d love to see it. It’s not often you get to share the stage with your mom at a rock show.
It had been a crazy couple of days and I couldn’t wait to get into my bunk and go to sleep. The bus had gotten a flat tire in the parking lot and while someone outside winched and pullied the bus into working order, I sacked out.
I woke up in Portland in time to get showered and head down to KINK radio with my radio promoter, Dave Einstein, where I played for a studio audience, did a short interview with some folks at the station, and thanked them for playing the record. Coming back to the bus, I saw my manager Darius, which was unexpected. I thought I’d be seeing him in San Francisco. I got out of the bus to say hello and he handed me a car key. There, across the street was the car of my dreams. A little blue 1973 Mercedes. I was, and still am, speechless about it. He and the band and a few friends all pitched in to give me it, and I am pretty much undone by their generosity. Wowsers. So come December, all you Northwesterners keep a close eye out for a hot little blue number tooling it’s way from Oregon to Idaho!
Last night’s show at the Aladdin in Portland was fueled with the same sense of cowed disbelief that ushered in the arrival of the car, which I am nominally calling the Blue Glove because it fits me so well. The space in front of the stage, normally about 25 feet of no man’s/no band’s land was squeezed full of people who had once again eschewed the seats for the floor and we played as hard as we could for everyone who had come down to our show on a Monday night. At one point, the people in front turned around and began singing to people behind them in the balcony. It was like the balcony scene from Romeo and Juliet, but with beer.
***
All right. I held onto this blog for a bit because I figured we still had a bit more West Coast to go. The show at Bimbo’s 365 Club went well. Lots of happy people and a horn section that rocked out. Before soundcheck, Eric Bachmann and I got a tour of the kitchen and private dining area of the club where Invasion of the Body Snatchers had been filmed and where folks like Mel Torme and Frank Sinatra used to eat private dinners before performing. We had a great time at the show and then finished the night at Vesuvio’s before heading late night to Los Angeles.
The weirdest transition of the tour for me was waking up in a parking lot in L.A. To go from the salt-sea air to the billboard and asphalt of Southern California in a few hours is a jarring experience. Luckily, we had a hotel room to break our fall, and all of us got a shower and a couple hours off before heading over for soundcheck at the El Rey Theater.
The El Rey Theater, like many of the theaters we’ve been playing on this tour, is a remnant of the golden age of cinema. With chandeliers, flocked wallpaper, and plush seats, these places are nearly unrecognizable from the shoebox multiplexes of today, and were designed around the idea that going to a show was an event. It’s a pleasure to play a place like this, and as it turned out, it became quite an event for one couple as the night went on.
I met Tim, the bar manager of the El Rey, outside the theater when I arrived. He told me that he’d met his girlfriend Montserrat at one of my shows a year and a half ago. Now, two shows later, he was going to propose to her during “Good Man.” He wasn’t asking to do it in front of people, he just wanted to let me know he was going to do it and he wanted to say thanks. He had a very nice bottle of bourbon for me as well. Pretty cool. Tim’s a really nice guy and I could tell that all the employees of the place were pulling for him so I asked if they could let me know if and when Montserrat said yes. Four songs into the set, I got the flashlight flash from the side of the stage. I’m so proud to have been a part of such a turning point in two people’s lives. Afterwards we hung out for about an hour, talking with the couple and with friends and drinking some very good bourbon.
The next day I got up, did laundry and then met the rest of the band to pile on the bus and head downtown to the Natural History Museum. We were going to tape a show called The Artist’s Den, which will be showing in January on the Ovation network. January is a long ways away, but in the short term, the experience was awesome and fun. We walked into the museum and were greeted by two enormous dinosaur skeletons locked in a death match. To the left was a large hall filled with skeletons of pygmy horses and giant sloths from the Cenozoic period, and next to that, another hall devoted to the large mammals of North America. There, at the end of the large wooden hall, a stage was being erected in front of a herd of buffalo.
The show was fantastic. We had a great horn section, good sound considering that the hall was all marble, wood and glass, and the folks shooting the show were so professional that the myriad cameras were invisible to us on stage. Five hundred people packed into the hall were up for a good time, and as impressed by the surroundings as we were. You don’t get the chance to hang out at night in a museum all the time, so after the show I headed to the Cenozoic period and met folks and signed albums until the wee hours at which point it was back on the bus and off to Tucson, Arizona.
These shows are more than just exciting; they’re an honor to be playing. I want to thank all of the people coming down and giving the band and I a chance. There are a lot of new folks out there and I appreciate your giving us a shot. To all the people working so hard to bring them, from word-spreaders to lighting people to monitor engineers and ticket takers, thank you. As you can tell, I’m pretty fired up by all that I’m experiencing out here on the road right now and I’m doing my best to turn right around and give it back to anyone who wants it. I’ll keep you up to date as we move on!
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Saw Ritter & his band on this tour, and they restored my faith in live music. Positively amazing.
I let the computer voice on my Mac read your blogs and it’s pretty damn awesome. Keep them coming. Sweet ride!
Man alive, they sure don’t make cars like that anymore, and it’s a crying shame.
I was at the Portland show and wanted to thank you whoever put that show together for giving us dancing space in front of the stage. From the second song on I was down there dancing and singing and it was just great that you would for-go the ticket revenue to give us fans space to dance! Cheers!
Wow--nice car! The color is gorgeous… you definitely deserve it. :)
The show in the museum sounds AMAZING! I loved the pictures! :)
Enjoy the rest of the tour and stay safe.
Great blog and great photos! Next best thing to being there! Glad the tram and Josh were on different schedules in SFO.
I was lucky enough to see both LA shows. How cool was that museum show? The crowds were great both nights. I couldn’t have imagined it any better.
Saw you guys in Philly at the World Cafe. Front row. it was kick ass. congrats on the coupe. good luck wit it.
Quite the life… enjoy…
WOW… I get shivers whilst reading your blogs. You and your band are TRUE musicians, “for the people.”
I’m sorry I missed you the one time you’ve played in Northern Idaho (Sandpoint- Festival 07). But thanks for this. I’ve been listening to you live at Vicar Street pretty much nonstop, along with a little Ray Lamontagne strewn in there for good measure. (Which, by the way, I think you and him should do a split EP together or something...oh these dreams of mine).
I don’t think I can say thank you enough for keeping in touch with your fans in such a unique manner!
(this was supposed to be attached to the last comment, but it said I could only have 500 characters.)
Shit- and now I’m only allowed to post 1 comment per minute. Jeez.
Wow, what a blast you guys are having!
ENJOY every second and see ya next week at Birmingham’s Glee Club.
YEAH! Birgit (who wishes she’d had a history teacher like Josh at school!!!) :-)
I’m glad I got to see you in Charleston. It was a great show given the time constraints, but that’s the great thing about Mountain Stage. It’s almost a musical sampler of sorts. I’ve found so many bands that I’ve really taken a liking to from there.
I was disappointed at the end, however. The people at the front sold me a large girls shirt. I have to say that the shirt doesn’t look too flattering on me, but I have nothing to do with it. Oh well…
Loved both LA shows, and I’m already counting down the days when you come back around.
Great Blog Josh.... now those of us in the UK get a chance to see you again....
See you in Manchester on Sunday
I love that your songs can be woven in with marriage proposals. .......fabulous adventures in this blog, Josh. I love your writings so much. Lisa
i learn so much just reading these blogs! THANKS! and i’m so happy for you!
Reading your rich observations of life on the road in your home country makes me wonder what you’ll say when you come to the UK next week, and your personal thoughts on the shows you’ve played are only serving to tantalise me more with the prospect of seeing you in both London and Brighton. I wonder too if you’ll be grateful of the shorter drives over here?!
To the awesome band: Keep your energies up - the UK is going to rock your socks off next week!!
Joanne.x
Your mom’s name is Kathleen....revelation! YAY!
Congrats on the sweet ride JR....u deserve it!
Hilarious and informative, as always. I love the near-death experience with the tram!
Josh! Thanks for the road trip stories :) We love your sense of adventure and awe of history and nature! We love you and remember...Josh Early Candies rule!
Here’s a shout out to Brian, the sweetest roadie out there!
So your new ride isn’t named Kathleen?
Wow. That had to be special, waking up in the adult store parking lot in SLC. I’m so glad that at least you know part of the church history, as I’ve not met enough people who do. LDS, I am.
A trolly almost hit me while I was in San Fran, so don’t feel bad. They’re just dangerous.
Love the car.
I definitely feel your pain with the transistion between the different parts of California. You never get used to that, just so you know.
Break a leg on the UK tour, and best wishes as always <3
"clean laundry on the road is true wealth”—i couldn’t have said it better myself. this blog was a pleasure to read, thank you for sharing your band and yourself so generously.... and i am just curious here, do you need a copilot from oregon to idaho?
Saw you in Seattle—fantastic show. One of the best ever (I keep saying that every time I see you!). We’ll be watching out for you and the Blue Glove this December--perhaps in the TriState parking lot, eh?
When are you going to play a little impromptu open mic at One World? :)
I love reading your blog entries, they are very entertaining and enjoyable to read...please come back to chicago soon
Saw your Boulder show and got to chat a bit with you after, thanks for putting out such a positive vibe. By the way, did you have Weisel for Government?
Awesome. Next time you cross the country, though, you should probably stop in St. Louis.
thanks again for an amazing show...it’s kind of funny thinking about how someone I barely know could have played such a pivotal role in the future of my life. we’re planning an August wedding here in Los angeles.
twas nice sharing some good bourbon with you
best,
tim
happy belated birthday mr. ritter! i’m happy it was a good one for ya. i’m not really a car kinda girl, but anyone with eyes can see what a beauty you now have the priveledge of owning. congrats!
and p.s. i found my sisters and i in the park west picture (although rather tiny, still very present) super cool my man :0)
hope to see you in the chi soon!
I was there for the cupcakes. My friend Devin and I watched as the person next to her got one, I watched as the person next to me got one. I was smooshed against the stage (we had staked it out many hours prior) and yet...no cupcake.
Josh and all you other guys,
A magical night is was in Boise, eh? I’m still not over it yet. Thanks Josh, and you all, so much. It was fantasic!!! (and dedicated to my sister! Side note: Burley, huh? was the wind still there? I grew up in that town and it was ALWAYS there. We said the wind didn’t blow in Burley, it sucked. A nice little town to be FROM. which I am. Thanks again for the GREAT show and best wishes onward.
Apparently Idaho has the most knowledgeable drivers on the road:
http://www.cnn.com/2007/LIVING/wayoflife/11/16/driving.stupid/index.html?iref=mpstoryview
My husband and I got to see you in Boulder; we drove all the way from Wichita, Kansas. It was worth every minute of that drive! Thank you.
Again a blog that had me giggling and gasping. I was part of the insanity that was the Egyptian in Boise - it was an amazing experience. Thank you for that night.
And congrats on the little blue car - it’s adorable. ‘73 was a good year.
You failed to mention that you ate the cupcake, candle and all, in one bite. That was pretty cool, and a little weird...As a precursor to walking across the US, I highly recommend the Camino de Santiago across Spain. You walk through beautiful old towns, cities and countryside, and there’s hostels along the way. Hope to see you and the Blue Glove pass through Bellingham in December(it’s on the way to Moscow, right?)!!! I know a couple great spots if you feel like playing a little music…
Proud to be part of “the most insane crowd” you’ve ever played to. I’m glad your birthday was phenomenal - you deserve all the riches in life. What a blessing you are to us all!
great blog cnt wait 4 Dec6 in Dublin saw u in Tripod few weeks back&wow band getting hotter........also luved ‘The River’......man cnt believe it bout 5yrs since 1st hear&c u on stage.........keep the faith&thanx 4 the great nites live&wonderful songs.........
I have a love affair with your music. I take a lot from simply just your words. I cannot explain how or why it has such a profound impact on me, but I don’t really care to try and explain it.. i take it for what it is… and let the music take over.
Great car man. Watch out for those trams. They do have a mean streak!
Just got back from your gig at the Glee Club in Birmingham - did you guys really play for two hours?! Excellent stuff indeed, if ever a man and his cohorts deserved a standing ovation it’s your good selves.
Keep breaking hearts, man, it’s a pleasure to have you around.
2 hours?? It felt more like half an hour! I could happily watch you play all night :D Thanks for another great night in Birmingham - definitely worth missing my last train for!
xxx
Thanks for making it to Boise again Josh. We got nothing but love for you here. Ditto for the band. Dig the new ride. It’s as cool as my ‘71 BMW 2002. And the same color. Should we start a “cars made before we were born” auto club? Thanks again for the life affirming gig!
that was a god read, word of the day-vim.
looking foward to ye in dolans. great pics the car is beautiful. drive safely.
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Mate! Thanks for all the great tunes...they just get better and better.Any chance of you guys getting down to Australia for a few gigs? I know its a long way,but I want to be one of the folks on here who get to see you play! Fingers crossed…
To Josh and the band congratulations on an amazing gig in Cork on the 27th. The sounds, the sharp dressing, the impressive light show combined to create a really memorable night. Enjoy the rest of the tour x
Just saw you guys on Sunday! It was great such a small venue i got to sneak back stage! And meet Josh, you guys were awsome!
hey man! i was in the olympia on 6th december dublin for the best concert of my life , you seriously are the best musician ever!!!!
In case you all read this. I wish you all the best for the new year. Until then have a great christmas!
Missed you at the El Rey, but have been spreading the gospel of Josh for months. Come back soon.
So I have this amazing idea you couldn’t possibly turn down; swing by eastern, ky. and do a little shindig there, in say Ashland!?
And, What will you get in reurn? Well, besides my (and many, many others) gratitude? As if that isn’t enough, how do a mean batch of special brownies sound? I know, it’s an offer too good to refuse, right?
Purty please?
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