Music  |  Features

Calexico - 11/6/08 - Marfa, TX

November 17, 2008  |  2:00pm
Marfa sunset bikes.JPG

Three of us on a big ass bus. Jason double checks to see if we really wanna go to Marfa. We nod in unison..."mmh hmm." Hours wiz by and we land smoothly and safely right outside the Thunderbird Motel. The front desk clerk, Kaki, rents us some bikes to tool around town. Old cruisers that take to the wide open road like a pair of new Converse on a hot summer day. Jacob and I meet a couple on similar bikes. We look like the only inhabitants on the city streets. Cars, tractors, trucks pass by. No one does a double take. There's a strange balance here.

We duck into Squeeze Marfa and wind up hanging there for two hours with the couple en route from Annapolis to Phoenix, a father and son from Denver taking photos of West Texas and a young art handler/musician from Austin who starts serenading all of us gathered at the cafe patio. By the end of the meal we are all talking about Victor Jara, Guatemalan politics in the '80s and The Church of The Friendly Ghost.

Marfa Sonic Bed Blurrr.JPG


Meeting up with John back at the motel, we decide to go and check out some of the installations at the Marfa Ballroom. Our friends Rebecca Gates and Lucy Raven have helped curate a series of installations around town called Marfa Sessions.Sonic Bed by Kaffe Matthews captivates us and lulls us to deep meditative silence.

Marfa Hotel Paisano.JPG


Fully rejuvenated after 30 minutes and inspired by the digital treatments of local field recordings, we decide to dine at the historic Hotel Paisano. Our waiter, when asked about the Marfa lights, says he never believed in them until recently. He was driving home one night and was showered in light, he said, "almost as if something was flying over head." A cop pulled him over and the driver asked if he too had seen the lights. No ticket was issued just his driver's license was checked and was informed to head home. It's hard to leave this town.

Jason wakes up around 10 p.m. and we leave shortly thereafter. As we traverse across the landscape he says we should check out the town Alpine as well. Sure enough, as we drive that very town, it looks as though there's some great haunts; historic hotels, boutiques, cafes, old man bars and BBQ joints. Yeah, I could come back here.

Marfa architecture.JPG

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