I’m sitting in a hotel room in Annapolis, Maryland and catching my breath. I’ve got Dawn Landes’ record Fireproof on, and I’m sitting on the bed with various cameras, iPods and mics around me. It looks like I’ve come back from a circuit safari.
The first five days have been fairly strenuous and very exciting. It’s Zack, Sam, Austin, Liam and I, accompanied by tour manager Tim and our guitar/merch man, Brian. Don Spitler is our bus driver, and the bus, as yet unnamed, brings the total traveling party to nine. Also along for the trip is “Bone Shaker,” Zack’s fold up bicycle, which fits neatly in the trailer. We loaded up the bus in Somerville, Massachusetts and headed north on Interstate 95, past Portsmouth and the lands of the New Hampsherites, past foliage turning relentlessly orange and golden despite the unexpected heat wave, and finally down along the drowned coastline of Portland, Maine.
I hadn’t played in Portland since I played at the Bull Moose Music record store when I released Golden Age of Radio. I’ve never played a full show there, but seeing as I’d recorded the album not too far from the Capitol of Vacationland, it seemed fitting that this was our first show of the tour.
It couldn’t have begun on a better note. Around four hundred people crammed the Space Gallery and the night was sweaty and fun. Special thanks to Aura for the truly mind blowing apples she picked from her orchard. They were gone in a snap.
Excited to give the whole sleeping on a bus thing a try, we piled in and stayed up late trying out the refrigerator and the bottle opener. The fridge does indeed keep the beers cold and the bottle opener does indeed open bottles. This settled, we settled in.
The next morning we awoke in Northampton, Massachusetts, and I went into the center of town and did a bunch of phone interviews and then played a radio show before heading over to Pearl Street for my concert that night. Under nearly constant renovation, Pearl Street is a big place with a lot of history, and it’s one of those spots you hear about all the time, so it was good to put a name to the face. For those of you in the UK, it’s a bit like Manchester Academy 2.
I sat backstage and did a few more interviews then began to examine the copious amount of backstage grafitti. My report on that is right here.
The show was good, the crowd was happy and although the sound was pretty rough, we had a good time and I went to bed that night in my bunk feeling like we slayed it and that we were beginning to stretch our legs as a band. I went to bed around 2 a.m. and woke up about five hours later wondering why my sleep was so short. You’d think that screaming down the road in a coffin would be fairly relaxing, but in fact it takes a little getting used to.
The Somerville Theater is a 900 seat turn of the century venue in Davis Square, just down Massachusetts Avenue from Harvard. We were all pretty sacked out from the drive and Sam and Zack and Austin all went home for a bit of a clean up while I went to a radio station for an interview. That done, we met back up in time for sound check and the show that night.
Horns. A musician singing songs with horns to back him up is a bit like a convicted murderer with a puppy; everyone thinks just a little bit better of the guy with the puppy regardless of the crimes, sonic or otherwise, he commits. Such is the beauty of horns, and I have to say it was a supreme pleasure playing with the fine horn section that Zack put together for the two shows at the Somerville.
We really hit our stride these two nights and each one felt like a bit of a celebration. We had a lot of friends and family there and the sound was crystal. I loved it. Furthermore, you can now buy beer at the Somerville theater, making the shows just a little more festive.
Festivity was in full effect for the encore when Old School Freight Train came out to join me and the boys for “Next to the Last True Romantic.”
After all the hullabaloo and boy-howdy of the Boston shows, it was great to get back on the bus and head to less familiar territory. Dawn Landes and I played Westport, CT this past February when I was on my solo tour. I remember we played in a church and did a song together in the pulpit.
This time through, the theater was a sit down auditorium in a very, very nice elementary school. The band and I had the music room as our green room and we busied ourselves playing marimbas, xylophones and gongs until it was time to go on. We played a quieter set as my voice was pretty ragged from the last several shows. “California” and “In The Dark” both made appearances, but we still brought home the rock.
The night trip from Westport to Annapolis, Maryland takes place mostly on 95. During daylight hours this is an imposing piece of road. At night in a screaming coffin, it is easy to imagine that we are trapped in the belly of a yak sauntering down a jungle path.
Lying in my bunk, chewing the last Maine apple in the barrel and imagining how far into the tour it would be before the scurvey took hold and my teeth started falling out, I began to think about how much this bus felt like a boat. As a matter of fact, it is estimated that from stem to stern the Santa Maria, Columbus’ flag ship, was seventy feet long. At 65 feet, our bus and trailer are pretty much the same size.
It’s just gone 8 am and I’m sitting backstage at the Ram’s Head in Annapolis. I have syrupy black coffee on my left and right now it’s powering up the engines.
My voice is not what one could ever accuse of being “pure,” or “crystalline,” still even mine needs a rest on occasion. So we got up yesterday and headed into D.C. to see what we could see. My drummer Liam Hurley pulled out his first ace of the tour by introducing us to his uncle, Jack. Jack Hurley, a whirring Irish dynamo is partly responsible for the building of the Newseum in Washington D.C. , a project funded by the Freedom Forum with the expressed purpose of reminding Americans how important a right is the freedom of the press.
“At a time when 52% of Americans believe that the press has too much freedom,” Jack said, “you can imagine why we believe this project is very important. If they come after the press, they’ll come after religion and the arts next.” The museum, which is slated to open in the first half of 2008, is still virtually empty of displays, but those exhibits already installed are fairly breath taking. A mind blowing 3-D movie with all kinds of bells and whistles is designed to take people on a whirlwind trip through the history of the press in America. In another hall, a long row of studios allows the museum visitor to tape and edit their own newscast and a beautiful view of the capitol building is the backdrop for the first HD studio in the city. The displays are designed so as to allow the entire building to respond to - and function around - the ever changing events of a particular day’s news so that each visit to the Newseum will be different.
Later we went out for dinner with Tom and Mary Kay Ricks. Tom is a friend of mine I met last year when he took me on a tour of The Washington Post. His book, Fiasco, which can be found everywhere right now, is an incredibly important piece of work on the military mission in Iraq and shows just how necessary a completely free press is. After dinner, Mary Kay took us on a nighttime walking tour of Georgetown. I couldn’t believe how much she knew about these tiny streets and the houses that stood on them. For a couple of hours we walked around as she pointed out everything from the steps that Father Damien Karras throws himself down at the end of The Exoricist (we raced each other to the bottom and back up again. Beat that, Karras!), to the house that once belonged to the plenipotentiary of the Czar of Russia and now belongs to the Kerrys.
We got back to the bus and had a drink and passed out. It’s good to get out of tour mode on a day off. It’s so easy to vegetate, and this is necessary sometimes, but a whole day off in the D.C. area is a pretty remarkable thing, and we ate it up.
So! That is an accounting of my first week on the road. Zack’s mustache is a little longer, we’re all a little thinner for wear and tear, but tomorrow is my first headline show at the 9:30 Club in D.C. and I’m looking forward to it. After that we head west, and I hope you’ll come along!