Back in Cusco for a month, I was on a mission to explore the current culinary scene, and to eat at every place the locals—both Peruvians and expats—recommended. And in Cusco there’s rarely a dull moment when it comes to food, be it rustic or refined. You’ll find food fairs selling rows of roasted guinea pigs and streets full of chicharronerias selling Cusco’s famed chunks of fried pork. There’s a smokehouse in San Blas with roots in Syracuse and a funky burger joint owned by Peru’s celebrity super-chef. Then, at the upper end of the scale, you’ll find Cusco’s flagship restaurants, which rank among the very best in Peru.
Tony Dunnell is a freelance writer living and traveling in Peru since 2009.