As far as “fashion capitals” are concerned, Milan has long been the go-to menswear destination for our global fashion biz, and there are countless reasons for why that would be; the city alone evokes notions of Italian craftsmanship, top-notch tailoring and beyond-dapper street style. And it’s there, on the biannual runway in Milan, the latest menswear collections have again provided a glimpse into a new season of stylish offerings for the well-dressed man. From relaxed leisurewear to refined, tailored numbers, here is a look back at the best collections from Milan Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2017.
1. Prada
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I’ve always been a fan of how Miuccia Prada pushes herself (as well as her iconic fashion house) above, beyond or against industry norms. This season, with her latest menswear outing, she’s again gone against the crowds by giving the boot to the trendy yet remarkably over-used sportswear influence—and replacing it with a 1970s-inspired range of corduroy, field jackets and leather berets. This collection was relaxed, somewhat reformed and really real. I marveled in her earthy tones and fell in love with her multi-colored geometric knitwear—and, of course, the bold furry belts that I suspect will be one of this upcoming season’s must-have accessories.
2. MSGM
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Inspired by horse racing and extreme alpine skiing, Massimo Giorgetti’s less-aggressive-than-it-sounds Fall/Winter 2017 collection delivered trendy Italian street options in a parade of black-and-white checks, puffer jackets and tracksuit combos, while head coverings came in the form of silk headscarves and caps – all donned at the same time. This label’s continuously bold use of color was a major bonus for me this season (in one occasion opting to layer a bright orange hoodie under a camel-collared orange-striped coat for an even-bolder impact); the end result had me wanting more.
3. Fendi
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Easily pinpointed as one of my top favorites from the week, Fendi’s enthusiastic collection of color-blocked track pants and fur coats offered a burst of fun and a certain level joyfulness not often experienced on the runway of this iconic Italian label. The spirit was alive in a series of headbands, beanies and knit sweaters, all of which featured the emblazoned words “YES,” “FANTASTIC” and “LOVE.” Though I typically liked how other designers this season ignored athletic influences, I really enjoyed seeing how Fendi layered zip-up cycling jerseys under black suits—a beautiful contrast to the rather street-wise fur slides and fur-striped tote bags appearing throughout the collection.
4. Marni
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Following the departure of Marni’s founder and creative director Consuelo Castiglioni October 2016, after 22 years at the helm, the Fall/Winter 2017 show marked the debut collection of Francesco Risso as the label’s new creative director. For his first collection, Risso reimagined Castiglioni’s familiar signature looks through a more street-cool approach. Belted trousers and tucked-in sweaters—all slightly undone, wrinkled and relaxed—met gorilla-like fur coats and bouffant fur beanies; all in all, a strong debut in what is sure to be a more playful, and certainly more youthful, Marni man.
5. Salvatore Ferragamo
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Another inaugural collection worth a shout-out from Milan Fashion Week Men’s is Salvatore Ferragamo’s Fall/Winter 2017 runway show—and the debut of their new design director of men’s ready-to-wear, Guillaume Meilland. For his first collection, Meilland sent out a lineup filled with layered looks, chunky cable knits, popping prints and an energetic nod to the Seventies—and, best yet, barely any references to the ath-leisure fad that’s been sweeping the men’s runway for far too long. Though the collection wasn’t without its ever-trendy bomber (this time appearing in shearling), Meilland’s variation on the Salvatore Ferragamo man looked entirely classy and yet effortlessly easy, complete with a wardrobe of outerwear options perfect for the cooler months in the city.
6. MOTO GUO
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In order to vamp up the sleepy, final day of Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani and the Italian Fashion Chamber have organized a seasonal collective runway show at the Armani Theater. Over the past few seasons, they have hosted several international designers, each with unique tastes and distinctive styles; this season, one of our favorite Malaysian designers, Moto Guo, was invited to showcase his Fall/Winter 2017 men and women’s collection, alongside Japanese label Yoshio Kub and Consistence, a London-based contemporary menswear label.
This season further illustrated Moto Guo’s childlike spirit—the base on which he built a fall-winter collection of sweet children’s clothes for adult men and women. A bold contrast from what you’d normally see on the Milan runway, short bloomer-like shorts, swan and flower-embroidered sweaters, and paper bag-waist pants in quilted padded cotton, appeared in a series of sorbet tones and cartoonish exaggerations, while Moto Guo’s attention to fun, street-style-perfect pieces was at an all time high—I might even go as far as saying this collection was, by far, Moto Guo’s most wearable collection yet.
Brent Taalur Ramsey is an American writer living in Paris.