Every half year, the fashion crowd gathers to watch the latest collections in British menswear go down the runway at 180 Strand, the official venue of London Collections: Men. And while many of these designers come from far and wide, they demonstrate a certain knack for the innovative and inspirational collections that have become rather synonymous with British menswear. Whether they graduated from one of London’s many famous fashion schools or not, designers—emerging and established—flock to the Britain’s cultural and fashion capital to celebrate the future of menswear.
And now, mere days after the shows have ended, we’re looking back at the best collections from LC:M Spring/Summer 2017, including Phoebe English’s brilliant menswear debut, Tiger of Sweden’s Baroque minimalism and many more, but be sure to stay tuned to Paste over the next few weeks as we continue to post recaps on the latest looks from Milan/Pitti Uomo, Paris and New York City.
1. Phoebe English Man
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Constructed exclusively from natural fabrics, Phoebe English’s first official menswear presentation at LC:M was a capsule collection filled with elongated shirts, soft cotton joggers, smart minimal coats and a variation on the bomber. While the similarities to her women’s line were unmistakable, she combined familiar shapes with several of the more recognizable fits from her previous men’s collections that accompanied her main line and filtering them through a gradient of accessibility and relaxed silhouettes. Backed by the Topman-sponsored “NewGen Men” prize, the Phoebe English MAN presentation was easily one of this season’s most anticipated shows. Her particular attention to form, fabric and finishing certainly paid off this season, culminating in a wearable, nonchalant collection that places functionality over decoration—no frills or fuss involved.
2. CMMN SWDN
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CMMN SWDN’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, entitled “Market Rodeo,” may have been inspired by the energy and attitude of the vibrant street markets in Marrakech, but it was the combination these influences with the serenity of North African desert that resulted in a mish-mash arrangement of stripes, checks and contrasting colors such ash grey, ochre and nude. This season’s key pieces include a cashmere-paneled striped jacket with fringe, a high-waist pleated trouser and a full-length loosely woven check coat—and by far one of the best coats you’ll see this season.
3. Cottweiler
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Based on the “future ruin of a hotel resort,” designers Matthew Dainty and Ben Cottrell and their joint menswear label Cottweiler presented an all-stops-pulled Spring/Summer 2017 collection along a runway scattered with powdered and broken pink ceramic pottery. Marking their first runway presentation, this season the young (and already highly successful) label, who is also the second on this to be a supported by the Topman-sponsored “NewGen Men” program, again presented a range of their signature track suits, this time upgraded with new technical treatments and materials, like a transparent Italian linen later seen as a blazer and shorts.
4. Tourne de Transmission
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Graeme Gaughan’s Tourne de Transmission may be one of the newer labels on the LC:M schedule, but the collections to date have been consistent and recognizable with a modern simplicity and lack of pretense that makes it honestly one of the more easy-to-love labels on the market today. Inspired by an imagined conversation between Gaughan and contemporary artist Chris Dorland about how discarded billboards have been used as shelters, this season’s collection was presented against a backdrop of what appeared to be temporary homes made of advertising imagery. The key looks this season include ponchos and parkas made from suiting fabrics, black-on-black patchwork and asymmetric stepped hems. And yet, we can’t help but still be crazy about his now-signature raw-edged jeans.
5. Tiger of Sweden
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Inspired by Sweden’s Baroque-era royal palace, Kungliga Slottet, and the social phenomenon designer Andreas Gran calls a “Third Culture” (where kids from one culture move to an another and end up forming an entirely unique culture of their own—a third culture), Tiger of Sweden’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway collection highlighted sharp, updated tailoring and the harmony of Scandinavian restraint. Exploring the Versailles-inspired palace as a parallel to the edgy influences from the ethnically diverse youth in Stockholm and Gothenburg, Tiger’s consistently sharp cuts emerged as a feature on several key looks this season, a highlight of which being the classic blazers made sharper than ever—and at times layered with utilitarian bulletproof-like vests.