The gateway to Canada’s west coast with a population of around 600,000, Vancouver sits at edge of the rainforest, is within a stone’s throw of some of the planet’s best skiing, and is one of the country’s most diverse bergs with more than half of its citizens speaking a first language other than English. Though it was named for British Royal Navy Captain George Vancouver, who mapped the region from 1791 to 1795, the city arguably owes more of its identity to Captain John “Gassy Jack” Deighton, who, seven decades later, opened a saloon at what is now the intersection of Water and Carrall. The tavern became the anchor for the Gastown district—Vancouver’s oldest neighboorhood and one of its chief cultural calling cards.
The 2010 Winter Olympics brought Vancouver and British Columbia into the global spotlight. However, its fifteen minutes have continued thanks to an evolving food and cocktail scene, a vibrant arts community and its reputation as one of the most liveable cities in North America. Exploring the city by two feet or on two wheels, there’s plenty to discover:
Day One
Morning
Denman Street’s Milano offers in-house coffee blends for the java-obsessed. Opt for the award-winning Butter and Velvet: smooth with caramel undertones. For those who want to channel their inner Euro style, try a flight of three varieties for $7.50. Join the locals who kick off their daily routines with a stroll or cycle along English Bay’s seawall, getting a blast of the salty air and a dose of art. A-maze-ing Laughter is a series of 14 bronze statues installed in Morton Park during the 2009 Vancouver Biennale by artist Yue Minjun. It makes for the perfect first selfie of the day.
Wander back along the edge of Stanley Park’s old growth forest to Brockton Point to see the nine historic and popular totems, representing different artists from the Coast Salish people. Arriving early for lunch at The Mill Marine Bistro & Bar means a patio seat with a grand view of Coal Harbour’s shipyards to watch as the seaplanes take off and land. A business crowd fave, choose a glass from the wine-on-tap options, like Hester Creek Pinot Gris paired with a Cedar Plank pizza loaded with wild mushrooms, roasted garlic and spinach.
Afternoon
The easiest place to spot a whale is beside the Vancouver Convention Center, where Digital Orca by novelist/artist Douglas Coupland overlooks the harbour. Nearby Gastown has transformed from predictable tourist shops to on-trend boutiques, cocktail bars and stylish restaurants. Consider a contemporary pillow or throw from espace d., passing by the newly-refurbished Gastown Steamclock (which may be selfie spot #2), go through the racks at Alfie Italia, offering stylish threads, a house collection of custom leather goods and a shoe polish lounge. The curated collection at Orling & Wu is hard to resist, especially glassware from the LSA Collection or stylish serving spoons from Sabre. Across the street, fashionistas make the pilgrimage to John Fluevog Shoes where Mr. F can often be spotted at his design studio. Got a craving for a mid-afternoon flat white or a pour over post-shopping? Nelson the Seagull is a lively café where hipster moms and dads dash in to pick up orders of fresh baked bread along with their lattes.
Evening
Gastown’s night version attracts a wide range—from the office mavens to edgy arty types. Start the evening with The Revel Sour Hour, and “Depression era tough as boots knows how to smoke a cigar” drinks that Grandma liked. Then learn about classic cocktails with a twist, at L’Abbatoir, wetting your whistle with a Smoke and Mirrors or Gastown Swizzle.
Be brave and walk past the dumpsters and graffiti of Blood Alley to discover the entrance of Salt Tasting Room for dinner, where it’s all about artisanal cheese and charcuterie from the Okanagan, Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island. A wine flight of British Columbia vintages for $16 and the Best of BC Plate featuring three locally produced items plus cheese and condiments for $16 is tasty way to graze the province. End the night with a cold pint of craft brew among the colorful characters of The Lamplighter Public House, and don’t forget to tip a hat to Gassy Jack’s statue before calling it a night.
