Uruguay’s Vermut Flores Upends Vermouth Culture

Think vermouth is just a dusty after-dinner digestive? Think again!

According to a recent study, more and more young drinkers are embracing vermouth as a versatile, low-alcohol spirits alternative, particularly in party-loving Uruguay, home to one of the world’s longest Carnival seasons. Here, the vermouth bar Vermutaría Flores by Vermut Flores anchors capital city Montevideo’s hip, thriving vermut (the Uruguay term for vermouth) culture.

Founded by three friends—fourth-generation winemaker Juan Andrés Marichal at family-owned Marichal Winery, bartender Álvaro Aniano and media personality and writer Salvador Banchero—Vermutaría Flores serves up three different styles of Vermut Flores. 

Tannat provides the foundation for their red and rosé vermouths, and Albariño is the primary grape used for the brand’s white vermouth. The eco-conscious vermut bar also employs a gravity-fed, proprietary bag-in-a-box pouring system that cuts down on bottle, cork and label use.

In this exclusive interview with Paste Magazine contributor L.M. Archer, Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero (while winemaker Juan Andrés Marichal was busy in the cellar) took time to talk about their disruptive role in the international vermouth scene.

(This interview has been edited for length and clarity.)

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LMA: What was the impetus behind founding Vermut Flores and establishing Vermutería Flores? 

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: We all love vermouth itself. Since we established the company and launched our first product (Rosa Negra grappa and honey, the national spirit of Uruguay), we knew that our next goal was a vermouth.

LMA: In your professional opinions, as a mixologist and media personality respectively, what’s driving the growth of vermouth’s popularity in Uruguay and its resurgence internationally? 

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: Low-ABV drinks are a [growing] trend.

Also, the bitter and aperitif world is [also growing]. But on top of that, we believe vermouth has its own style and personality as well as being a very noble beverage because of its wine base instead of a high-proof spirit. You can really taste the difference between the different wine bases. 

LMA: Do you notice any cultural differences or consumer flavor profile preferences in your various international markets?

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: In South America and Europe, the drinking culture of vermouth is very clearly established: neat, on ice, often with olives. In the USA, it is still considered a very important cocktail ingredient, on top of a nice aperitif to drink neat. 

LMA What’s been the biggest surprise since launching Vermut Flores? 

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: Press!! Wine Enthusiast’s 100 Best Spirits of the Year [2022], medals and high scores everywhere. Also, consumer reactions when they taste it for the first time, which is so amazing.

LMA: What’s been your greatest challenge since launching Vermut Flores? 

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: Definitely the level of investment required to communicate efficiently and impact the [of] American consumers. We feel we are doing very well with a very small budget, so we are always wondering how it would be if we could play hard. 

LMA: What was the impetus behind establishing Vermutería Flores in Montevideo?

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: We were thinking a lot about a place that can spread the vermouth culture, and we waited for it, but nobody took that flag—so we decide[d] to go for it and add a brand experience. 

We think the concept was very clear, simple and effective, so that is probably one of the reasons behind its success.

LMA: Can you explain a little bit about Vermutería Flores’ innovative, gravity-fed, behind-the-bar bag-in-box pouring system and how/why you developed it? 

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: We created it to solve a problem of barrel filling and logistics, with a solution that also hit the market as a new product range. 

Regarding the Vermutería Flores system—the idea to pour by gravity—was something that seduced us since the very beginning, and that was possible thanks to the bag-in-box.

[Also,] the idea of offering more sustainable options than bottles was in the air, but as a consumer, you can not buy barrels. 

This way you can buy a 5-liter box with a fun way of pouring (tap built in), cheaper than 6.6 bottles, more responsible with the environment, and it allows us to develop a system to fill the expectations of the market about draft vermouth.

LMA: Can you share a bit about your role in Uruguay’s upcoming, first-ever Southern Hemisphere World Vermouth Day?

Álvaro Aniano and Salvador Banchero: Yes, we are very proud of what is happening in the artisanal vermouth world right now, especially in Latin America. 

We are organizing a convention of producers in Uruguay to celebrate this partnership. Producers from Chile, Peru, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay, among others, will come down here in late September to participate in this event. 

We will also sign a manifesto to declare September 21 as Southern Hemisphere International Vermouth day, as an alternative [to] the actual World Vermouth Day, which is at the beginning of the spring season for the Northern Hemisphere [March 21].

The way that we help and interact with other producers from the region is something that has become a characteristic of the new era of artisanal vermouth.

It is so nice to collaborate with other producers instead of seeing them as competitors. There is an amazing heritage to showcase to the world, and we are sharing this with passion. Very exciting things are about to happen!