Bernheim Barrel Proof Wheat Whiskey (Batch A224) Review

The Bernheim Wheat Whiskey brand has always occupied a relatively overlooked niche within the Heaven Hill whiskey portfolio, never receiving nearly as much attention as any of the company’s classic rye bourbons, wheated bourbons or even rye whiskeys. When they announced the arrival of a new barrel proof version of Bernheim last year, then, I wondered if perhaps this might raise the brand to a new level of acknowledgement, but it hasn’t necessarily seemed to be the case. Fact is, I still don’t see all that many people talking about Bernheim Barrel Proof, but I suppose that’s okay at the end of the day–it’s the quality of the liquid that matters, and the first release of the new brand was quite promising.

In the subsequent year, attention has mostly drifted toward Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, which made waves after the announcement that its previously 12-year age statement would now be fluctuating. We also can’t help but wonder if, after the introduction of Larceny Barrel Proof and Bernheim Barrel Proof, a cask strength rye whiskey is destined to arrive from Heaven Hill one of these days. Perhaps they can’t decide if “Rittenhouse Barrel Proof” or “Pikesville Barrel Proof” would represent a better value/consumer cache equation?

Regardless, Bernheim Barrel Proof is here with its first release of 2024, Batch A224. As in the typical Elijah Craig naming convention, the “A” simply designates the first release of the calendar year, while the first “2” means February and the 24 simply refers to the year. Notably, this one is coming in at easily the highest strength yet for the series at 62.6% ABV (125.2 proof), which is a nice bump from the first ever release at 118.8 proof. It retains the same “7-9 years” age statement, and roughly $65 MSRP.

So with that said, let’s dive into tasting this new barrel-aged wheat whiskey from Heaven Hill.

On the nose, Batch A224 displays deep toffee sweetness and impressions of sticky, cooked dark fruit, with flourishes of roasted oak (slight smoke and char) and cocoa. I’m getting some suggestions of cinnamon bun, helped along by an impression of butteriness. Notably, the ethanol is really quite muted here on the nose for this strength, allowing to very deeply nose this for a whiskey in the mid-120 proof range.

On the palate, this batch displays big caramel up front but especially huge spice notes–big spicy oak character with lots of cinnamon and cardamom, with that oak also contributing some mild tannic dryness. There’s fruit to be found as well, both in the form of dried fruit and fresher/jammy black cherry syrup. The mouthfeel stands out for its silky texture, which was also a feature of previous Bernheim Barrel Proof releases, but what I keep coming back to here is the spice. That tingling spicy oak character really lingers on the palate for minutes afterward, taking the moderate residual sweetness of this dram and making it seem a bit more dry all told. I certainly don’t remember the previous batch of Bernheim Barrel Proof I tasted having this kind of baking spice rush, not that it’s a bad thing. The ethanol, meanwhile, is nearly as well hidden and integrated here on the palate as it is on the nose. From top to bottom, this drinks very well at 125.2 proof.

In short, it’s another winner for this series, which feels right out of the gate more overall consistent to me than the likes of Larceny Barrel Proof. If you haven’t gotten around to exploring Bernheim Barrel Proof, and particularly if you vibe with this batch’s more spice-forward dimension, this stands out as a solid value and a bottle worth taking the time to find.

Distillery: Heaven Hill
City: Bardstown, KY
Style: Straight wheat whiskey
ABV: 62.6% (125.2 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $65 MSRP

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.