It’s been a couple years now since Buffalo Trace acknowledged the ever-increasing premiumization of their product lineup by making the savvy move to drop the word “Jr” from each bottle of its Stagg Bourbon. That “Jr” had implied that this was the somewhat less mature (but still 6-9 year old) variant of the similarly cask strength George T. Stagg, a member of the exceedingly difficult to obtain Antique Collection (this year’s BTAC reviews here ). This still makes for a little confusion to this day, and bourbon enthusiasts can still be found referring to the product as “Stagg Jr.” to avoid confusion, but little else has changed. The average Stagg batch is still a bruiser, flavor bomb bourbon that is widely sought by collectors.
Frankly, we don’t come by these very often for review purposes, but a bottle of most recent Stagg Bourbon Batch 23B did fall into my hands the other day. So with that in mind, it makes sense to revisit the brand where it is today.
For one thing, the new and simple batch lettering system is certainly an improvement–we can look at “23B” and easily understand that this is the second overall release of 2023. It’s better than the previous system, which required cross-referencing against a master list. This particular batch, meanwhile, weighs in at 63.9% ABV (127.8 proof), which is overall on the slightly lower side for Stagg, a brand that is frequently found in the 130s.
So with that said, let’s get to tasting this barrel-aged Buffalo Trace bourbon.
On the nose, this strikes me as somewhat more subtle than most of the previous Stagg noses I’ve come across, without as explosive a presentation. I’m getting medicinal cherry and a dusting of cocoa powder, with some underlying oak/rickhouse funk. Traces of mint and unexpected florals are interesting, segueing into honey tea and something reminiscent of peach cobbler emerging as I continue to nose it. Charred oak is prominent, with an occasional sting of ethanol hinting at the barrel proof of it all. All in all, though, it’s a bit subdued compared with other Stagg batches.
On the palate, the cherry returns, but it establishes a theme in the sense that it doesn’t present very sweet. Instead we have fairly heavy oakiness and spice, with roasted oak and woody French roast coffee. I’m getting burnt sugars and flamed orange peel, with an overall profile that reads pretty dark, and less sweet than most other Stagg batches. It actually finds itself turning in a rather herbaceous direction, with significant tobacco, resin and leather wrapped up in a profile that is increasingly rye forward, with mixed peppercorn lightened by vanilla cream. One thing missing is the big, candied fruit qualities often associated with the brand.
All in all, this strikes me as an atypical batch for Stagg, not that this is objectively a bad thing–just a different approach. I like these elements, but I have a feeling that Stagg Bourbon Batch 23B will probably appeal to a more narrow group of Buffalo Trace enthusiasts than most batches, primarily those who are interested in a more dry and oak/rye-forward Stagg expression.
Distillery: Buffalo Trace
City: Frankfort, KY
Style: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey
ABV: 63.9% (127.8 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $70 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident craft beer and spirits geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.