As the final city in our seasonal trek along the international fashion week circuit, Paris, as well its resident designers, has to withstand quite a lot during the 9-day fashion week—mainly exhausted editors and the fashion fatigued. However, this season, it seemed the attendees weren’t the only ones drained; the designers were also weak—of creativity.
In the most bazaar turn of events, Paris Fashion Week strayed from its usual brand of high taste for Spring/Summer 2017, with several collections receiving the dreaded “I was hoping for more” post-show remark. Though, they weren’t all drab with low levels of imagination; our favorites on this list shined with a true to form and highly sophisticated offering for the season ahead, and we couldn’t wait to reminisce with you in this look back at the best collections.
Jacquemus
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Simon Porte Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2017 was easily the standout star from day one with his exploration of the South of France through dramatically oversized and distorted springtime silhouettes. The straw sunhats with extra-large brims were easily the showstoppers here, but his play on menswear basics—the jacket, pant and shirt—gave all the dimension and technique you could ever ask for. There’s a reason this designer has become the fashion darling of the Paris scene, and it’s about time we Americans jump on board.
Issey Miyake
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Hands down the king of geometric patterns, Issey Miyake isn’t a name known to follow trends or industry norms, and that’s exactly why it’s so easy to love the label now under the creative direction of Yoshiyuki Miyamae. Miyamae’s seasonal forms appeared as signature geometric patterns on a spacious runway, where he also revealed the season’s new technique—the Cut & Stick. And, though it’s exactly what it sounds like, his geometric cutouts of stiff fabrics fused beautifully with flowing jersey for a series of unique and colorful looks, which made up a majority of this bold yet refreshing collection.
Wanda Nylon
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There was a lot of buzz surrounding Johanna Senyk’s label Wanda Nylon this season; in July, she won the illustrious ANDAM award, and her Spring 2017 collection was her first collection shown since wining the competition. There was no telling what would we see on the runway, but we were more than happy to see that not much had changed. Her particular brand of nonconformity found its way through the season as garments appeared true to her underground aesthetics, this time styled with motorcycle booties and several variations of her latest experimental materials—woven metal mesh and the suede substitute Alcantara took turns as this season’s must-have tailored trenches.
Haider Ackermann
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This week was all about Haider Ackermann. Coinciding with the news of his appointment as the new creative director for Berluti, the LVMH-owned menswear label, his spring collection captivated a relatively weary audience with a change in pace from past collections. This season he filled the runway with dramatic options and spiky haired models—each marching slowly to the tune of deep bass and the hum of wind machines while in decked wafting silk and ribbons in bright tropical colors. But, for a designer who is known for his draping and wrapping, it was a complete 180-degree shift to see him highlighting his strength in tailoring with high-waist fitted pants and jackets with its midriff baring straps.
Veronique Branquinho
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Veronique Branquinho honed her homespun aesthetics with an 18th century-inspired collection; one that was full of references to the interiors of old country houses and its faded floral wallpaper. The lineup included traditional handicraft techniques such as needlepoint, tapestry and cross-stitch across a wearable range of long shirtdresses and cutout dresses, but it was the way she balanced pleats and ruffles that made her one of our favorites. During a week it seemed almost every designer had his or her own variation of ruffles, Branquinho’s frills were proportionate and practical without the risk of being redundant. While the muted color palette might have become a bit monotonous toward the end of the show, her bomber jackets and sweatshirts were an instant hit, with several sporting tapestry details that felt entirely referential yet wearable and modern.
Brent Taalur Ramsey is an American fashion writer living in Paris.