With Fashion Month still underway, New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016 has made an impression on the industry as a whole, for better or for worse. For some, this season was a time looking to the future of off-the-runway shopping and the opportunities it will bring. For others, fashion week was a chance to revisit favorite designers—and a few new ones—for the best look at what is to come for the winter ahead. Labels such as Self Portrait, Calvin Klein and Rodarte were at the top of their game this season, presenting a range of new looks and classic silhouettes with each designer’s individual influence. Here is a quick glimpse into what they presented.
1. Self Portrait
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
The mastermind of lace, Self Portrait’s Han Chong presented a Fall 2016 remake of the signature romanticism that has contributed to the label’s success; this time, however, the attitude of the overall collection was vamped up with unexpected elements and a color palette quite similar to the paintings of Francis Bacon. Classic yet modern, Self Portrait’s Fall 2016 collection is certainly one of the best Chong has presented since launching the label in 2013—and gives hope to an even stronger future. This is a brand you definitely want to be following.
2. Coach 1941
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
Two years has passed since Stuart Vevers started re-establishing what we all thought about Coach. No longer merely a handbag company, Coach has established a new brand signature in style. For Fall 2016, Vevers has transformed the brand’s seasonal offerings with a bohemian spirit and taken it back to school. Shearling and sheepskin coats are sure to be style monuments over the next year, while varsity jackets and fur-lined high-top sneakers definitely take a close second place.
3. Proenza Schouler
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
Proenza Schouler’s designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, have always shown a particular eye for craftsmanship, so much so that shoppers, students and even other designers aspire to their level of quality. And it seemed appropriate this season was inspired by a few rather process-oriented artists, including Frank Stella, Richard Serra and Robert Ryman, which were found translated into triangular silhouettes, A-line shapes and sophisticated layering. The tailored jackets and knit dresses were definitely the key takeaways from this collection.
4. Calvin Klein
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2016 appeared androgynous at first with menswear-inspired black suits, but while it was never vulgar this season mixed tailored outerwear with faux fur and minimalist plaids for an ultimately very feminine and very sexy collection. Toward the end of the runway show, embellishments of Brazilian geodes appeared suspended and in perfect harmony to all-black and printed dresses. Who ever said that jewelry had to be worn on the extremities? Another classic Calvin Klein collection with Costa’s distinct flair.
5. Rodarte
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy are as true to the label as they ever have been, and the dreamlike fantasies made of lace, ruffles and patchwork-leather that appeared during their Fall 2016 runway show were a certain testament to that. Even now, with 10 years under their belts, their unique vision remains as fresh and relevant as ever. This season was a light-meets-the-dark sort of collection that, although sometimes being quite bold, showcased the designer’s ability to create messy-looking yet entirely beautiful garments.