NYFW Womenswear Weekend Recap: All about the Fur

Style Lists

This weekend was jam-packed with designers, runway gossip and fur—lots of fur. It would seem the ‘70s influence is running strong, making an appearance in many shows like Ohne Titel, Diane von Furstenberg and Derek Lam with cinched waists, flowy wrap dresses and iconic pantsuits. But truly, FW15 is all about the fur, whether real or faux, leather or shearling, women’s outerwear was lined, or collared, and/or completely detailed in fur accents. Just take a look at Altuzarra’s contribution. If not fur, designers took the modern route and played with the dark side. Alexander Wang, Opening Ceremony and Edun all showed mainly black collections with pops of color here and there, but ultimately their vision for 2015 was a dark and modern world.

Either way, there are still three more days left and plenty of designers waiting in the wings. Below, we have highlighted a few shows that especially caught our eye in womenswear over this past weekend.

5. Ohne Titel

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A photo posted by OHNE TITEL (@ohnetitelny) on

Ohne Titel, headed by Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, always bucks the trends with their modern knitwear. This season with an opulent color palette, though at times brash, felt fresh and unique among the neutral caramels and mostly black collections. The pieces centered on teal, cobalt and bright coral, even fuchsia, and were vibrant, layered and playful. Ohne Titel showed us a great new play on traditional knit with their netting details and cinched waists, hearkening to the unstoppable shoutout to ’70s styling.

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A photo posted by OHNE TITEL (@ohnetitelny) on

4. Alexander Wang

For his latest and greatest, Alexander Wang painted everything black. With heavy, goth styling, greased hair and dewy, pale makeup, Edward Scissorhands came to life, but in an approachable and dare it be said, retail-friendly collection. Though the pieces when paired with despondent faces and slick hair appear standoffish and cold, Wang’s collection, when broken down, and stripped of the platform moonboots, will sell. The leather is rich and luxe like a black orchid, his dresses with shoulder cutouts have just enough peekaboo flirtation, and the silver, chainmail detailing brings dimension to another tough-girl urban style.

3. Mara Hoffman

Mara Hoffman, known mostly for her prints and swimwear, showed us a whole new world with for FW15. Based on Star Wars vixens and the planet Tatooine, the desert child reigned supreme with chunky thick layers and deconstructed braids. Her collection was all about texture and the standout black floor length gown with Crayola color stripes at the bottom was tufted chiffon like we had never seen before. A little bit English horseback rider, a touch sandstone maven, Hoffman’s collection was a delight and easily one of the more complete stories we saw this past weekend.

2. Adam Selman

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A photo posted by Adam Selman (@adamselman) on

Adam Selman took his show to the schoolyard, literally. The models lingered around a chain link fence in the middle of the runway and we were instantly thrown back to schooldays and bobby socks. A mashup of clashing prints—plays on gingham and a Little Bo Peep sweet girl pattern—styled with a sky-high, windswept bouffant and finger curls, made this campy good girl gone bad the perfect vixen for FW15.

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A photo posted by Adam Selman (@adamselman) on

1. Opening Ceremony

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Opening Ceremony joined forces with Renaissance man Spike Jonze for their latest collection. Using Jonze’s reels upon reels of 35-millimeter photographic film as inspiration for their textile prints, the images pre-Beastie Boys video, pre pre-Being John Malkovich and long before Her, gave an ironically modern edge to the mostly black and camel apparel. Opening Ceremony’s presentation was youthful and lively as always with a Tony the Tiger-inspired coat, as well as knit sweaters, oversized office button downs and easy layers just right for moving through any world you find yourself in. Every last detail down to the nails was decked out in Jonze’s original images.

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Honorary Mention: Sandy Liang’s Outerwear

Parsons Design graduate and 23-year-old phenom Sandy Liang may only have two seasons under her belt, but, for FW15, she showcased a collection centered on outerwear that had us excited for what she will bring to the table next. With internships under Richard Chai, Jason Wu and Phillip Lim, the woman knows the importance of detail, elegance and vision. Her work was girly to the max, but with a rugged intensity that gave the mink and shearling pieces an urban feel. We can imagine Emma Stone rocking the pale pink brocade number, and the blue cookie monster-esque overcoat has our name on it.

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