Off the Beaten Path: From Sarajevo to the Croatian Coast
The Neretva River, connecting the Adriatic Sea with the mineral-rich mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina, once flanked a rugged trade route in the Balkans for centuries. Now paved roads from Sarajevo to the Croatian coastal town of Makarska act in much the same way for visitors looking for a true Balkan experience without the crowds associated with Western Europe.
Below is a insider’s stage-by-stage plan for a trip from the Bosnian capital to the clear waters of the Adriatic. Plan or no plan though, be warned: Driving cross-country in a region where old-school navigational skills are helpful encourages spontaneity, humbling interactions with locals and an adventure in a West-meets-East landscape.
Morning in the Bosnian Capital
Starting in Sarajevo, wake up to enjoy fresh pastries at Maison Coco, the French bakery about a 10-minute walk west of the Orthodox Church near Old Town Baš?aršija. The walk-up window provides rich chocolate croissants, tarte aux pommes, and warm baguettes starting around 2 BAM—known as Konvertible Marks—or KM (about $1.13 at 1.77 KM to the dollar). Pairing this pastry with good coffee is a must, and bringing food to a café is commonplace in Bosnia. Walk back through Old Town as folks are opening up shops and sweeping away last night’s festivities. Just up the hill from the Sebilj Fountain, Cajdzinica Dzirlo offers thick Bosnian coffee paired with a Turkish delight for proper measure.
Haggling for Souvenirs in Konjic
After securing your rental car in Sarajevo (rentals are cheap and easy to find in the Balkans, especially if you can drive manual), head out on the A1 motorway towards Mostar. The surrounding countryside of Bosnia and Herzegovina is reminiscent of paintings from the French Impressionists with towering hay bails and farmers in light cotton pants and sun hats tending to fields. The first stop along the way is the town of Konjic, known for the traditional wood crafts and furniture that date to intricate Ottoman-carved designs. Braca Niksic Drvorezbarska radnja, the fourth generation wood-carving business in town, gives visitors a tutorial with interactive carving sessions and a glimpse at the patience needed for their craft. Maple and walnut woods from the surrounding Bosnian forests provide the medium for the detailed trays, boxes and tables in the shop.
While in town, make sure to stop by Tito’s Bunker: a nuclear bomb shelter built last century to protect the Yugoslav leader in case of attack. The shelter has been turned into a contemporary art museum. Rooms are filled with works from artists from around the world.
Lunch in Mostar