Waffles, Beer, Chocolate, and Frites: How to Do 3 Belgian Cities in 3 Delicious Days
Main image: Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce in Bruges, photo by Kara Zuaro. Chez Albert waffle and Grand Place photos by Archer D'Angelo. Ghent photo from Unsplash. Other photos by Kara Zuaro.
If you’re into castles, beer, and comfort food, it’s hard to imagine a better destination than Belgium. Three days is enough time to visit three walkable cities and feel the history in the cobblestones beneath your feet as you eat and drink your way through a culinary culture that tends to get overshadowed by its French neighbors. You may come for the waffles and frites, but you’ll want to stay for the house beers, the carbonnades, the waterzooi, the fairytale streets lined with chocolate shops, the unfamiliar local treats, and the extraordinary accommodations along the way.
Bruges: A storybook village
Start in Market Square, among horse-drawn carriages and frites stands, and gaze up at the centuries-old Belfry of Bruges, where you can climb up 366 steps for some awe-inspiring views of this fairytale city—and work up an appetite. Grab a Belgian waffle loaded with sweet or savory toppings at House of Waffles, or head over toward Chez Albert, where you might find a shorter line for waffles doused in your preferred combination of light or dark chocolate, strawberries, caramel, and whipped cream.
From there, you can take a peek at Burg Square, home to the ornate City Hall built in the 1300s and the gold-accented Basilica of the Holy Blood, famous for housing a blood sample said to be from Jesus. Nearby, a very narrow alley leads to De Garre, a bar where local elders laugh over white tablecloths in a warm room of age-old brick and dark beams. Their famous house beer, the Tripel De Garre, with notes of malt, spice, and toffee, goes down easy for an ale with an 11% ABV. Beers are served alongside creamy little cubes of cheese, and if you’ve got non-drinkers in tow, order some of their rich hot chocolate, too.
Afternoon plans:
If you’re craving a museum’s worth of chocolate fun-facts, Choco-Story has a 90-minute audio tour that covers 4,000 years of choco-history, including hands-on activities and chocolate ephemera (like historical hot cocoa mugs equipped with a ceramic barrier to protect one’s mustache), and a free chocolate demonstration and tasting as the finale. However, you could just as easily take a self-guided tasting tour of the chocolate shops of Bruges. Be sure to hit up the local favorite, Chocolatier Dumon.
To see more of Bruges, you could take a boat ride through the canals, hop in a horse-drawn carriage, or walk to the windmills at the edge of town, but early birds should save this stroll for the morning. If you can sneak out before the shops open, it will feel as though you have this storybook village all to yourself.
Dinner and drinks:
Book a table at Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, where they’ve got 400 beers on hand and hearty local specialties like Flemish carbonnades, a classic Belgian beef stew. For another round (or three) after dinner, ‘t Brugs Beertje offers 300 beers in a cozy space with a gallery of old-timey enamel beer signs covering its walls.
Where to stay:
Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce is located in the heart of Bruges at the meeting of two canals, offering water views on two sides of its historic brick building. Its 16 rooms feel appropriately lush and pleasantly old-fashioned (think floral wallpaper, heavy curtains, creaky floors) and the staff is very welcoming, but the biggest draw here is the breakfast, served beside a glowing fire in an opulent dining room overlooking the water. Their made-to-order light-as-air waffles with powdered sugar and the richest whipped cream were served alongside a buffet of smoked salmon, pastries, cheese, and a fruit salad studded with fresh currants.