Best of: Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017
Taking a step away from the more traditional suits that are so synonymous with the Italian fashion scene, the collections presented during Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017 were some of the boldest and most creative menswear shows we have experienced so far this season. From Damir Doma’s soft tailoring and elongated silhouettes to Moto Guo’s distorted silhouettes, and even Gucci’s whimsical springtime explorations, there’s a lot on offer in the way of men’s outerwear, easy-to-wear athleisure and, yes, tailored suits. Here are a few of our favorite collections from MFW S/S 2017.
1. Damir Doma
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
Men and women were sent down the runway wearing rich monotone looks with each garment appearing as an accompaniment to those worn by the opposite sex. Considering it’s Damir Doma’s first show since he relocated his brand from Paris to Milan, his Spring/Summer 2017 runway collection also marks the first time the designer has showcased men and women’s clothing side by side. Come September, he’ll replace his standard runway presentation with appointments and re-sees, but for now there’s a lot to love. Elongated silhouettes, mixed-media vests and Doma’s signature soft-shouldered tailoring in outerwear have made this a collection filled with several spring staples: namely his boldly hued bomber jackets, transparent paper-thin silk shirting and saturated denim.
2. Moto Guo
2px); width:calc(100% 2px);”>
For his first time on the official Milan calendar, Malaysian designer Moto Guo brought his A-game to the catwalk, complete with the childlike innocence and the distorted silhouettes similar to the ones which made him a forerunner for the 2016 LVMH Prize earlier this year. Although the prize would later be awarded to British menswear designer Grace Wales Bonner, the competition brought Guo out from Southeast Asia and into an international arena. This season, he introduced a game-changing collection into the Milan Spring/Summer 2017 schedule, where, instead of presenting classical tailoring and traditional suiting, Moto Guo offered a lineup of outsized jackets, paperbag waistline pants and bib-like tops. The models walking down the runway (to shuffled nursery rhymes no less) sported exaggerated bedhead and acne-covered faces; this was not your ordinary, run of the mill show—and it couldn’t have been any more perfect.