Chock full of creative craftsmanship, there were a few collections this season to flout the now somewhat-overarching “Demna Gvasalia effect” of exaggerated shoulders and extra-boxy shapes for an exploration into the more luxurious side of menswear; but, they didn’t let that keep them from sending out entirely wearable ranges onto the runways, this time filled with utilitarian jackets, coats and opulent details.
From the exciting Louis Vuitton x Supreme collaboration to Hermès’ devotion to quality craftsmanship, this season was a true showcase of modern menswear, complete with fur trims, sumptuous cashmere and several awesome footwear options. Here are five of the best collections from Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2017.
1. Dior Homme
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Throughout Kris Van Assche’s fall-winter collection for Dior Homme, he again sent out a series of sartorial looks, this time for the club kids. Held in the salons of the Grand Palais in Paris, the show was bumping to the beat of revved-up speakers, while models walked across a runway tiled with “HarDior” printed tape—a wordplay of “hardcore” and “Dior” that also appeared across several of this season’s new looks. In addition to the cool details and accessories (contrast stitching, large safety pins, strappy sneakers and embroidered visors), my favorite looks included the long sleeveless fur coats and an anorak-cape option printed with partying boys. “Fight for the right to party,” for sure.
2. Études
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This season was all about artistic collaborations for Études—and what a number there were! There was the dark floral motif by American artist Matthew Chambers (found printed, knitted and as one particularly puffy duvet coat), a print based on the 1992 still life photography of cigarettes and Coca Cola by Dike Blair (printed on silk shirts) and several graphics inspired by Gus Van Sant’s 1985 film “Mala Noche.” If Qasimi’s duvet coat from LFWM didn’t have you convinced to go out and get one of these extra-comfy outerwear options, then Études’ extra-large scarves and printed duvet looks are sure to convert you.
3. Louis Vuitton
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This just might have been the collection to break the Internet during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, thanks to Kim Jones’ collaboration with the NYC-based skater label Supreme, but there was so much more to see than the accessories. Equal parts downtown cool and uptown class, Louis Vuitton’s latest menswear outing offered the best of modern street culture while staying true to their French savoir-faire. Half-tucked shirts, v-neck knits and slouchy trench coats, next to loose, pleated pants and fil coupé pajamas; this was a collection full of great separates and, of course, a covetable new range of red-leather bags.
4. Kolor
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Junichi Abe easily showed one of the best collections of men’s fall 2017 season, with the line of plaid shirting and utilitarian workwear he sent out at Kolor’s latest runway show. That said, it was all about the embellishments for him this season—and we are all the better for it. In a series of jackets, coats and relatively realistic options, Abe’s eye for details was emphasized in the way he introduced fur, zipped pockets and grosgrain ribbons—all decadently layered and, often, in surprising places (like the fur-lined vents of coats). A bit lower, his furry footwear accentuated the theme of the collection: That menswear shouldn’t be without its furs and frills—utilitarian or otherwise. Just like we like it.
5. Hermés
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Another collection that found beauty in the details, Véronique Nichanian’s new fall-winter menswear collection for Hermès exceeded expectations, even for a French fashion house known for its craftsmanship. This season’s found leather details on technical wool coats, saddle stitching on extra-fine cashmere, and a patchwork of cashmere and suede goatskin; but nothing could distract from the remarkable cashmere options this season had on show. Overall this collection was opulent luxury at its most wearable: Cashmere favorites mingled with a fur cable-knit sweater in green, a belted duster coat in black-and-white houndstooth, and a velvet suit in bold burgundy (a key look in this season’s love for velvet). By far, this was the one collection that had me falling head over heels, more than any other on this list, and that’s saying something.
Brent Taalur Ramsey is an American writer living in Paris.