What to Do in Buffalo: Beyond Snow, Wings, and the Bills

We all know the cliches about Buffalo. Ruthless winters. Masochistic devotion to star-crossed sports teams. Faint whiffs of Cheerios wafting through the city. But scratch beneath the surface of ice and rust and you’ll find how New York’s second-largest city delightfully surprises. Sure, there are the eponymous wings, great beer, and beef on weck, but Buffalo also boasts Thai and Burmese restaurants rivaling any in Queens or Los Angeles. Yep, it’s a drinking town with a sports problem, but it’s also a city studded with cultural jewels like the AKG Museum, the Guaranty Building, and Frederick Law Olmsted’s most stately public parks. 

Hailed as “The City of Good Neighbors,” Buffalo exudes warm hospitality in inverse proportion to the hostility of the weather. Listen closely to the local accent, and you might think you’re in the Midwest. In fact, Buffalo historically has closer links with Great Lakes entrepots like Milwaukee and Chicago than downstate cities like New York City or Albany. Buffalo might be synonymous with the Rust Belt, and the city has indeed seen its share of economic vicissitudes. But despite her weathering, the Queen City still glitters—perhaps even more elegantly because of it. 

So bundle up, don a Bills or Sabres jersey, and come explore the culinary, musical, and cultural joys of the snowy belle of Lake Erie. 

Where to Stay

Oscar’s Inn, a Second Empire-style gem in the sleepy Elmwood Village neighborhood, makes for a cozy sanctuary on cold nights. This gorgeous bed-and-breakfast was originally a private home built in 1875, and every room—each comfortable and private—has its own distinct flair. Proprietors Jen and Rob are always happy to offer dining recommendations over a glass of wine or a cup of coffee. In the morning, follow the enticing aromas of baked scones and freshly brewed coffee to the kitchen for breakfast.

The Richardson Hotel was constructed in a collaboration between two of the grandest urban designers in American history: Frederick Law Olmsted, the force behind Central Park, and Henry Hobson Richardson, a revolutionary, 19th-century architect. A castle-like edifice of red brick, the structure originally served as a mental hospital. But don’t let this rather dark pedigree deter you—accommodations are luxurious, and the hotel’s restaurant, Cucina, is exquisite.  

Where to Eat

Speaking of delicious eats, no trip to Buffalo is complete without beloved regional indulgences like beef on weck—tender, thinly sliced roast beef on a caraway seed roll—Western New York-style pizza, and chicken wings spicy enough to knock you off your bar stool. Buffalonians hold strong opinions about the best wings in town, but most agree that Gabriel’s Gate, a snug watering hole festooned with Bills memorabilia, fries up some of the city’s finest. The debate over the best beef on weck likewise rages vehemently, but legendary Buffalo food writer Andrew Galarneau recommends Cafe Bar Moriarty for its gourmet reinterpretation of this classic tavern sando.  For exemplary Buffalo-style pizza—thick crusts; sweet, bright sauce; and a blanket of pepperoni cups—make a detour for the Bocce Club. 

Home to vibrant Burmese, Indonesian, and Thai communities, Buffalo boasts Southeast Asian restaurants as destination-worthy as the city’s wings and pizza institutions. Head to the West Side Bazaar, a market hall run by recently arrived immigrants, for aromatic plates of nasi goreng, tea leaf salad, and piquant bowls of laksa soup. For strong coffee, hangover-banishing breakfasts, and chipper service, snag a seat at Swan St. Diner, inside a restored 1930s dining car. After a plate of corn beef hash, burn off the calories with a stroll through the nearby Larkinville neighborhood, once a bustling company town for Larkin Soap Company. 

While Buffalo might have perfected bar and tailgate chow, the city likewise does fine dining with aplomb. DiTondo, an old-school neighborhood Italian joint recently renovated into a hip trattoria, specializes in perfectly cooked pasta; charcuterie boards heaped with mortadella, prosciutto, and coppa; and an impressive cellar of Italian wines. As a sweet finale, the panna cotta drizzled with honey and salt is a showstopper. Southern Junction smokes up masterful BBQ and enlivens succulent brisket, sausage links, and pulled pork with hits of curry and South Asian spices. 

Live Music & Nightlife

The Goo Goo Dolls. Rick James. Skyway Robbery. The roster of world-class musicians from Buffalo is impressive. On any given night, dozens of venues across the city—ranging from bars, theaters, and underground clubs—host rip-roarin’ live shows. 

Originally a foundry from 1906, Buffalo Iron Works hosts shows running the gamut of country and hard rock to psychedelic jam and hip-hop. With iron columns and wooden ceilings—surprisingly well-suited for acoustics—the venue still resembles its former function as a smelter. Pull up to the bar, a repurposed bowling alley, to sample an admirable selection of Buffalo craft while you enjoy the show. If it’s late-night camaraderie and virtuosic live jazz you seek, make your way to Nietzsche’s, Buffalo’s unofficial clubhouse for musicians, barflies, and eccentrics of all stripes. 

Art and Architecture

Home to masterpieces of Mark Rothko, Frida Kahlo, and Andy Warhol, the magnificent AKG Art Museum promises hours of stimulation for the mind and soul. The museum has both a free section as well as a ticketed section ($18 for adults)—both options are spectacular. After you marvel at the galleries within, save time to peruse the museum’s sculpture garden and nearby Delaware Park, public grounds widely considered to be Frederick Law Olmsted’s magnum opus. 

In the city’s architecture, artistic genius expresses itself on a grander scale. Downtown Buffalo is a wonderland of Art-Deco, Neo-Gothic, and Romanesque treasures. The Guaranty Building, a sandstone tower with a facade as ornate as a jewelry box, became the world’s first skyscraper in 1896. Without Buffalo’s architectural innovation, there would be no Empire State Building, Petronas Towers, or Burj Khalifa. The Campaign for Greater Buffalo offers riveting architectural and historical tours of the city from the comfort of an open-air bus. 

Only in Buffalo

Even those indifferent to the NFL can appreciate the contagious enthusiasm for the Bills, one of America’s most beloved sports franchises. During home games, Orchard Park, the neighborhood around Highmark Stadium, comes alive with all the delights of tailgating—barbecuing, communal alcohol, and ample trays of wings and pizza. The energy of the fans, throngs of all ages decked out in red and blue, could shame a Viking berserker. 

Everyone might be Irish on St. Patrick’s Day, but on Dyngus Day in Buffalo, everyone is Polish. Each year on the Monday after Easter, Buffalo flaunts its Polish heritage and flouts its open-container laws during this raucous festival of pierogies, parades, and polka. To witness the heart of the Dyngus Day festivities, head to Broadway Market. Keep some Advil and water handy for the next morning. 

Niagara Falls

Niagara Falls, one of the most sublime natural wonders of North America, is a 30-minute drive from Buffalo. You can view the Falls for free from designated lookout points, but a boat tour on the Maid of the Mist ($28 per ticket) offers the most exquisite up-close vistas. After marveling at the Falls, peruse nearby Lewiston’s quaint streets, buzzy restaurants, and charming boutiques. Brickyard Pub and BBQ is a worthy stop for hearty plates of smoked meats paired with pours of Western New York craft suds. 

Johnny Motley has written for The Daily Beast, Matador Network, Cool Material, and more. He’s on Twitter @johnnymotley and Instagram @motjohnny.