Iberá National Park Is One of Argentina’s Greatest Natural Attractions
Photos courtesy of Jennifer Simonson
Domingo cuts the boat engine and we begin to float along the grassy marsh lands of the Laguna Iberá in Northern Argentina’s Iberá National Park, watching the clouds reflect off the mirror-like water. The unusual morning fog has burned off leaving a deep blue sky, and we sit for a few minutes just taking in the view. Eventually Domingo speaks up. “When I was a kid, I would swim in here all the time.”
He had just told us the lagoon was full of piranhas, so I ask the obvious question: “Did it scare you?”
“Not when I was a kid, but a few years ago I saw a piranha bite a chunk of skin out of my friend’s foot when he was getting out of the boat. Their teeth cut through the skin like a knife. Now I have a little more fear than I used to.”
We float by a caiman sitting on a tiny sandbank. His leathery snout is wide open to allow the breeze to pass through his mouth, cooling him down. At one point these crocodile-like reptiles were over hunted and left on the verge of extinction by local hunters who killed them for their skin. Today it is hard to imagine the caimán almost disappearing because they are everywhere. In the mid-1980s, residents of the Laguna Iberá region observed a troubling trend: caimanes were becoming increasingly scarce. Realizing the potential risk of extinction for these reptiles, the local community transitioned from hunters to protectors. They outlawed the hunting of caimans and transformed the former hunting grounds into an ecological reserve. This transformation in their relationship with the environment marked the beginning of a significant conservation movement that has since swept across the entire region, making a profound impact on the preservation of local biodiversity.
The Lagoon Iberá is part of the Greater Iberá National Park. Created in 2018, the 1.76 million hectare park full of grasslands, forests, floating islands and marshes is on its way to become one of Argentina’s greatest natural attractions. The park encompasses much of Iberá Wetlands, which is one of the most significant fresh water reservoirs in South America and the second-largest wetland system in the world after Brazil’s Pantanal. The massive freshwater basin is home to some 4,000 species of flora and fauna. In addition to the biodiversity of the land, a small group of conservationists have started a groundbreaking rewilding initiative to reintroduce endangered species like the jaguar, green-tipped macaw and giant river otter.
Laguna Iberá can be found at the park’s southeast entrance. The nearby town of Carlos Pellegrini is a perfect jumping off point to explore the park. As tourism has grown in the area, so has the town. In 1997, three small hotels opened providing a total of about 25 rooms. Today the town of 1,000 inhabitants has accommodations from quaint guest houses to traditional luxurious estancias to accommodate 1,000 guests.
“This town used to be a ghost town,” Domingo said. “There was only one main road and there was nothing to do. People who left and came back a few decades later say it is a completely different town.”