Yerevan is a place of storied resilience. Its history is haunting—filled with horrific war and disaster—and Biblical in scale. Founded in 782 B.C., the capital of Armenia is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities. And because Armenia is landlocked and sandwiched between Turkey, Iran, Georgia and Azerbaijan, this city of more than one million people is an ideal place to stop on a tour of the South Caucasus.
It’s worth mentioning that there are more Armenians outside of Armenia than in the country today. This is the result of a diaspora that followed genocide at the hands of Ottomans, in which some 1.5 million were killed. In short, outsiders may first think of the Kardashians when they hear “Armenia,” but the country’s turbulent history is still a tender one and very much present in the country today.
The residents here are typically swarthy with handsome, pronounced features, and are equal parts proud and hospitable. To walk down a street in the center of Yerevan is to saunter, to wander. Explore avenues dotted with shops, restaurants, open squares and parks. In the summer, air conditioners drip on dusty, broken concrete and clothes hang to dry on zigzagging lines. To know Yerevan is to experience its street culture, to spend the day lazily sprawled on a couch at an outdoor cafe.
The center of Yerevan, or Kentron, is where the main attractions are concentrated. You can see everything—cafes, theaters, concert halls and art galleries—on foot or by taking a short taxi ride. There’s an underground metro that you won’t need for transportation, but riding it is a fun activity for public transit nerds and fans. Long hot summers and cool winters make late summer and early fall an ideal time to visit.
Day One
Morning
Watch the city wake up from the top of the Cascade, a giant stairway that ascends the hillside (see photo below). Climb the 572 steps, past art-filled landings, to a monument celebrating the Soviet victory in World War II. From a height of nearly one thousand feet, you can see Mount Ararat on the border with Turkey in the distance on a clear day. At the base of the Cascade, visit Cafesjian Center for the Arts. The entry is price 1000AMD (or $2.11, at 473 Armenian Drams to the dollar). Have a late breakfast at one of the many outdoor cafes, like The Green Bean. They have a fairly Western menu that includes smoothies and anything from black coffee to cappuccinos to accompany pancakes or an omelet. Walk down the bustling Mashtots avenue to the Blue Mosque, an 18th century Shia mosque. Don’t miss the artists selling colorful paintings in the small parks along the way. The mosque itself is stunning and built around a lush garden and covered with mosaics.
Afternoon
If it’s a weekend, haggle your way through Vernissage, a multi-block outdoor flea market near Republic Square. Row after row of vendors sell their goods, from musical instruments to dishware to carpets to kittens and puppies. Take a taxi to the Genocide Museum (free, but closed for construction until April 2015) and explore on your own or take a guided tour. Eat lunch at Dolmama in the center of town just off Republic Square. It’s a little pricier, but a Yerevan institution serving traditional dishes like lamb stew and thick Armenian coffee.
Evening
Walk up past the Cascade or take a cab up the hill to Victory Park, a park that commemorates Soviet Armenia’s participation in World War II. You’ll find a bizarre collection of rickety outdated rides at an amusement park built in 1950 that somehow still run. If you’re brave, take a ride on the swings or the Ferris wheel. Nearby is Mother Armenia, a 240-foot-tall statue of a female warrior overlooking the city. From here you can see all of Yerevan and beyond. Look for the nuclear power plant 20 miles away if it’s clear. Have dinner at Caucasus Tavern, near Yerevan State University, which specializes in traditional Armenian and Georgian dishes. Order khinkali, stuffed dumplings and khachapuri (Georgian cheese-filled bread) to start. For dinner try the gonio (a heavy beef, mushroom, potato concoction covered in cheese).
