25 of the Best Milkshake IPAs, Blind-Tasted and Ranked
Photos by Emma Korstanje and Leah Hale
This list is part of a Paste series of bottom shelf liquor and craft beer style tastings. Click here to view all entries in the series.
Craft beer geeks have a tendency to desire specific, exact definitions when it comes to beer styles.
If they see a porter and a stout, side by side on the same beer bar’s menu, they’d like to believe there’s an innate difference between those two styles. It’s only natural—we want to be able to accurately label and classify things, to better understand them. But given that American brewers don’t actually follow strict guidelines when naming and classifying their products, this desire is sometimes misguided. That porter, and that stout? They might very well share almost exactly the same mash bill, and you can be almost certain that the brewers chose to call their beer “porter” or “stout,” based not upon historical fancies but which title they thought would sell better in their market.
So it is also, at least to extent, in the odd corner of the IPA universe that is “milkshake IPA.” If you google that term, you’ll see plenty of definitions … but good luck finding one that every brewer will agree with or hold to. The fact of the matter is, this style is still new enough that brewers are simply labeling many different styles of beer with the “milkshake” label, and hoping they sell. Some are even trying to argue that “smoothie IPAs” are an entirely separate category from “milkshake IPAs.” Whether these terms will ever coalesce into a more concrete definition, only time can tell.
However. If there is one concrete thing you can say about milkshake IPA, it’s this: A milkshake IPA should definitely contain unfermentable milk sugars, in the form of lactose. Yes, many are fruited as well … but not nearly all of them, as this blind tasting made quite clear. Many are spiced, many are fruited and many are otherwise flavored, but there are plenty of breweries that are simply adding lactose to their regular IPAs—even non-hazy IPAs!—and calling them “milkshake IPAs.” For this reason, just seeing the words “milkshake IPA” on a beer label tells you very little about what exactly to expect.
The other, more unfortunate, thing to say about milkshake IPA is that many of them are just plain bad—syrupy, saccharine sweet monstrosities that have been completely dominated by fruit or spice additions to the point where they’re close to undrinkable. Vanilla is often a key culprit, and we’ve tasted more than one milkshake IPA that had all the seeming of a melted Yankee Candle. If we’re being reminded of Southern Tier Pumking while drinking a milkshake IPA, that’s a very bad sign.
But with all that said, when done well, some of these milkshake IPAs are actually sort of great. It’s a delicate feat to find a perfect balance between strong flavors, sweetness, mouthfeel and drinkability, but more and more breweries are finding ways to pull it off. We managed to gather 27 of them, so let’s check out who impressed.
A Note on Beer Acquisition
As in most of our blind tastings at Paste, the vast majority of these milkshake IPAs were sent directly to the office by the breweries that choose to participate, with additional beers acquired by us via locally available purchases and the occasional trade. We always do our best to reach out to breweries we’re aware of that make exemplary versions of particular styles, but things always do slip through the cracks. We apologize for a few significant omissions that we couldn’t acquire, either due to seasonality or market shortages. There will never be a “perfect” tasting lineup, much as we continue to try.
Rules and Procedure
– This is a tasting of milkshake IPAs, largely determined by how the breweries chose to label their products. All beers had to be labeled or described as “milkshake IPA” in some capacity, or at the very least contain lactose. When in doubt, we simply allow a brewery’s marketing to define a beer’s style, and expect them to stick to the designation they’ve chosen.
– All types of adjuncts and flavorings were allowed. There was no specific ABV limit.
– There was a limit of one entry per brewery, in the interest of limiting the sample size of the whole field to a manageable number. The beers were separated into daily blind tastings that approximated a sample size of the entire field.
– Tasters included professional beer writers, brewery owners, brewmasters and beer reps. Awesome, style-appropriate glassware is from Spiegelau.
– Beers were judged completely blind by how enjoyable they were as individual experiences and given scores of 1-100, which were then averaged. Entries were judged by how much we enjoyed them for whatever reason, not by how well they fit any kind of preconceived style guidelines. As such, this is not a BJCP-style tasting.
The Field: Milkshake IPAs #27-11
Like just about any Paste tasting, there’s some bad beer here in the field—there’s no hiding it. In milkshake IPA in particular, there’s a capacity for things to go very, very wrong.
With that said, there’s also plenty of milkshake IPAs here in the field that drink very nicely—we just decided to limit this top group to 10, given the smaller size of the entire field of entries. Ultimately, what we were looking for were IPAs that delivered both the decadence you expect from the style, and a decent amount of drinkability, without losing sight of the fact that “IPA” is part of the beer name.
As always, the beers below are simply listed in alphabetical order, and are not ranked. I repeat: The beers below are not ranked.
Arches Brewing Lagerdoodle
Aurora Ale & Lager Co. Triple Cream
Brink Brewing Co. Blueberry Milkshake
Elysian Brewing Co. Fuzzicle
4 Hands Brewing Co. Smooth Operator
King Canary Brewing Co. Mango Grizzly
Kros Strain Brewing HopShake
Narrow Gauge Brewing To the Yard (French Toast)
Night Shift Brewing My Pineapple Brings All the Hops to the Yard
pFriem Family Brewers Mango Milkshake
Proof Brewing Co. Strawberry Vanilla I’m Popular
Rogue Ales Strawberry Blaster Cannon
Shorts Brewing Co. the Ooze
3 Magnets Brewing Co. Big Tom’s Milkshake Peach Melba
Wren House Brewing Co. Berries & Cream
The Finals: Milkshake IPAs #10-1
10. Trophy Brewing Co. Language Lessons
City: Raleigh, NC
ABV: 5.6%
The verdict: There were several solid milkshake IPAs in this tasting featuring stone fruit—which seems like a natural fit for the style, to us—and this one from Trophy Brewing Co. just edged another peach milkshake IPA to slide into the ranked portion of the list. This one is easygoing and approachable, with a big hit of fuzzy peach and considerable vanilla sweetness, but an appreciable dryness on the back end. Smooth and gentle, and a bit lighter of body than most of the other milkshakes, this beer simply leans on a well-calculated level of peach flavor to make it universally approachable to just about any palate. Sometimes, that’s what it’s all about—knowing where to stop, if someone is going to drink an entire 16 oz can of your beer.
Ah, and as if it needs to be said: We appreciate the Better Off Dead reference and illustration here.
9. Breckenridge Brewery Ginger Ice Cream Man
City: Littleton, CO
ABV: 6.8%
The verdict: If you want proof that a good milkshake IPA could come from just about any brewery these days, then look no further than the AB InBev-owned Breckenridge, which sent in this lovely little ginger affair. This one works mostly thanks to prudence and drinkability—they really dialed in an assertive (but not overwhelming or particularly spicy) ginger flavor, which works surprisingly well with the ribbon of residual sugar and vanilla richness running through it. It’s actually lighter in body than most of the other beers, and it drinks frighteningly easily as a result. Hell, it’s almost in contention to be described as “refreshing,” especially in comparison with most of the other entries. Of all the milkshake IPAs we tasted, it’s one of the few you could reasonably pair with a meal. Make of that what you will, but Breckenridge certainly deserves some credit for their deft use of flavors here.