The Unbelievable Story of Stephen Foster, Craft Beer Con Man
Photos via Getty Images, Chris J. Ratcliffe
I’ve heard some strange stories about brewery employees over the years, but it’s 100 percent accurate to say that I’ve never heard a story like this one before. Dogfish Head’s Sam Calagione once described the craft beer industry as 99 percent asshole-free, but if the years since have taught us anything, it’s that he was being very generous in his estimation. Especially in a world where the likes of Stephen Foster continue to exist, trailing brewery closures in their wake.
We should note: Information regarding this story is still pretty scarce. Most of what we know comes from a Kentucky Sports Radio story first published yesterday, wherein the tale of Stephen Foster is brought to light, but there are some supporting anecdotes to be found around the web. Some of this stuff may have to be taken with a grain of salt, but there are enough corroborating breweries to say this with some degree of certainty: A man named Stephen Foster has been conning American craft breweries for more than a decade, at the very least. It’s like the beer world’s equivalent of Frank Abagnale in Catch Me If You Can, except much less sophisticated.
Credit where credit is due: Writer Michael Moeller did a bang-up job of diving into the seedy history of this craft beer bogeyman in his KSR story, and you should really go read it in its entirety. Rather than attempt to condense Moeller’s entire story here, I’ll simply sum up.
The Craft Beer Con Man
Since at least 2007, craft breweries in both the U.S.A. and Europe/Africa have apparently been scammed by a man named Stephen Foster, who just so happens to possess the same name as the famous songwriter, although there’s evidence he has at various points worked with the first name “Scott” and the last name “Sala.” He has been connected to a dozen or more breweries, working in various places for a few months at a time (up to several years) before disappearing when things turn sour. He seems to target brewmaster positions especially, but primarily at young breweries with less-than-robust hiring practices where he can win jobs through force of personality alone, covering up a seemingly obvious disqualifier: He’s not very good at making beer.
The typical Stephen Foster MO, then, has worked out something like this:
1. Foster approaches a young brewery looking for a brewmaster, or approaches small-town entrepreneurs and convinces them to open a brewery, with him as brewmaster.
2. He misrepresents his previous brewing history, saying that he received “formal education” in beer at the Bavarian State Brewery of Weihenstephan or the Siebel Institute in Chicago. These lines are repeated in a Creative Loafing Tampa story from 2016, where Foster is mentioned as having brewed in “the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and South Africa,” while working for the time at Tampa’s 81Bay Brewing Co.
3. Beer quality under Foster’s reign is subpar, with various breweries describing batches that are infected and contain bottle bombs or other off-flavors. Brewery business suffers as a result, and occasionally other brewery employees grow suspicious of their brewmaster’s supposed qualifications.
4. At some point, Foster disappears overnight, leaving town with a wife and children in tow. He gives no warning, leaving breweries in the lurch and several times leading directly to brewery closures.
According to the timeline assembled by Moeller in his story, this pattern has played out repeatedly, leading to Foster jumping around from Kentucky to South Africa; from Arizona to Indiana; from Tennessee to Pennsylvania; from Florida back to Kentucky. That eventually led Foster to Cadiz, Kentucky in 2017, where he convinced a couple named Brandon and Molly Oliver, the owners of Black Hawk Farms, to open a brewery named St. Arnulf Alery, which is now (unsurprisingly) defunct. To quote Moeller: