How One Sonoma Winemaker Is Expanding The Scope Of California Chardonnay

There are some wines that are undeniably polarizing, and Chardonnay is one of them—especially in the United States. Although Chardonnay is one of the most versatile wine grapes and can therefore be produced in a range of different styles, it’s gained a reputation in the U.S. for being intensely buttery and oaky, with pronounced notes of vanilla and baking spices.

Some love these qualities, but for those who prefer lighter, fresher and more balanced wines, American Chardonnay has (in some circles, at least) earned itself a bad reputation, as a beverage mostly geared toward older women. Some California producers, though, like Joe Nielsen, winemaker at Ram’s Gate Winery in Sonoma, are working to remind American wine consumers that Chardonnay can be created in a lighter, more elegant style.

“Historically, Chardonnay thrived in the hills of the Côte d’Or, celebrated for its freshness, minerality and elegance,” explains Nielsen. “These are the qualities I cherish in the Chardonnays I craft at Ram’s Gate, and they resonate strongly with our customers.” It’s not about redefining what Chardonnay is; it’s about reminding people of Chardonnay’s potential for creating refreshing and restrained wines that are a far cry from the over-oaked bottle of Chard you stole from your mom in tenth grade. “I believe shifting American perceptions of what Chardonnay can be is more about exposing palates to styles that have been underrepresented in recent history…” Nielsen says.

Nielsen says that he personally takes an Old World (essentially, European) approach when it comes to Chardonnay, filtered through a “modern perspective.” For him, that means that balance is key, and that sense of balance is evidenced in his Chardonnays that marry lightness and verve with texture and complexity. “I find great satisfaction in crafting wines that embrace elegance,” he says.

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A lot of that elegance is crafted in the cellar during the winemaking process. A more restrained use of oak barrels, for instance, can yield wines that boast less of those signature buttery notes some consumers are acquainted with. Limiting a wine’s contact with the lees, or the dead yeast cells that form in the barrel during the fermentation process, can also help a Chardonnay maintain its acidity and freshness.

But crafting an elegant Chard is about more than just what happens in the cellar—the vineyard also plays an important role. According to Nielsen, Sonoma is well-poised to work with Chardonnay because of just how variable the climate is in that part of the state. “Spanning numerous mountain ranges, diverse soil types and with influence from the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean, our county boasts an abundance of exceptional terroirs and under-the-radar vineyards awaiting exploration,” explains Nielsen. “These maritime influences ensure significant diurnal shifts, which are crucial for maintaining freshness and vibrancy in our wines.”

At the heart of Nielsen’s craft is a connection to the land where Ram’s Gate sits and sources its grapes from. “I admire Chardonnay producers who deeply connect with the land where their grapes are grown,” he says, “which I have found across hidden gem vineyards throughout Sonoma County. Sonoma County’s rich diversity has captivated me for more than 16 years, and I continue to discover new facets of its terroir.”

Chardonnay can be many things, depending on where it’s grown and how it’s produced. It can be buttery, yes, but that’s not the only face of this grape and the wine it produces. Winemakers like Nielsen are reminding American consumers that California Chardonnay can display beautiful acidity and complexity—and that it deserves a place in wine culture beyond your grandma’s glass.

Samantha Maxwell is a food writer and editor based in Boston. Follow her on Twitter at @samseating.