If I were going to take a several-month journey across an ocean, there would be quite a few things I would want to bring with me to keep me occupied. My phone would be one of them, of course, along with my extensive e-book collection and perhaps a larger device on which to read said e-books. I’d also want to bring plenty of wine with me, as I’m sure alcohol would provide a great deal of entertainment after endless ocean views for weeks at a time.
But in the 1600s and 1700s, as pasty Europeans problematically navigated the globe, on their way to steal land and resources from people who had previously just been minding their own business, iPhones and Kindles were not options for onboard entertainment. Luckily, though, wine was—at least until it started to spoil, which happened often. To prevent this spoilage, some winemakers started to fortify (add alcohol to) their wines, which preserved them for longer, rendering them drinkable for the long haul.
At the time, the Portuguese island of Madeira, located off the coast of Morocco, became an important stop for long-haul travelers, who would stock up on necessities—including wine—for their journeys. Once on the ship, the casks of wine would repeatedly warm and cool depending on how close to the tropics the boat got. These repeated temperature changes made the wine richer and more complex. Hence, the Madeira wine we know today was born, although wineries now have different cooling and heating systems that don’t involve seafaring. Today, the wine is made in a variety of styles, ranging from dry to very sweet, and is often enjoyed as an aperitif or a dessert wine.
I’ve tasted my way through three Madeiras of differing styles to give you a glimpse into what this category has to offer. Although you may not see Madeira on every restaurant’s wine list, it’s definitely a style you should try if you get the chance.
Cossart Gordon 10 Years Bual
Some sweet wines can be overwhelmingly sweet, but that’s not what you’re going to get with this wine. Yes, it’s sweet enough to be enjoyed as a dessert wine, but it’s not so sweet that you’re going to want to pass up on an accompanying slice of cake. Electric acidity and palpable heat from the alcohol play well with the notes of toffee, dates and almonds you might notice on the nose. Enjoy with some trail mix, dry cheese or sweet chocolate for dessert.
Vinhos Barbeito Savannah Verdelho Special Reserve
Markedly darker in color than the Cossart Gordon 10 Years Bual, this wine is deeper with more intense dried fruit aromas. As a “special reserve” Madeira, this wine undergoes an aging process that ranges from 10 to 15 years, and you can definitely taste that age in the glass with its notes of dried orange peel and oak, although there’s also a freshness to this wine that’s displayed in its notes of dill and thyme. Although this wine leans toward the sweet end of the spectrum, it would pair well with a charcuterie board full of cured meats and briny olives.
D’Oliveira 1995 Tinta Negra Medium Dry
If you’re looking for a Madeira that doesn’t taste as sweet on the tongue, then this old Madeira that’s labeled as “meio seco” or “medium dry” might be up your alley. This wine exemplifies what I think of as the “antique-y” flavor that Madeira often boasts, like an old wooden chest was filled with dried pineapple and apples. There’s a hint of smokiness there as well, along with a pronounced ginger note. This wine, like many Madeiras, can age for years and years in the bottle, which makes it a special choice if you want to tuck a bottle away for later. It needs some time to open up and express itself fully, so you may want to decant this wine before taking a sip.
Samantha Maxwell is a food writer and editor based in Boston. Follow her on Twitter at @samseating.
