Each spring, gin geeks–and I promise you, such people do exist in the spirits world, at least in the margins–know that they’re going to receive at least one highlight from one of the most dependable names in the industry. This is the time of year when Hendrick’s Gin unveils the annual entry in its Cabinet of Curiosities series, the always unpredictable new offering from Master Distiller and eminent flavor-explorer Lesley Gracie. Produced via experimentation at the brand’s beautiful Gin Palace and its accompanying botanical gardens, past entries in the series have included the likes of the “quinquinated” (quinine infused) Orbium, the coastal-inspired Neptunia, or last year’s flowery Flora Adora. This year’s new Grand Cabaret, meanwhile, looks toward Parisian cocktail dens at the turn of the 20th century for its inspiration. Or as the brand puts it:
It seems that stone fruit flavours, rose scents and gin were a magical combination in the most opulent of establishments in Paris at the turn of the 20th Century, and eaux de vies, peach schnapps, cherry liqueurs and the like were the ‘in thing’ for those who had the means to celebrate in spectacular style. Our Master Distiller, alchemist and liquid poet Lesley Gracie has deftly combined these flavours into a ravishingly fruity spirit, where pirouettes of decadent stone fruit share the stage with sweet herbs and make for an elegant sensory feast that is deliciously indulgent and yet as light as silk.
The gin is recommended for a G&T (of course), and the signature cocktail, a Hendrick’s Grand Cabaret Royale, combining cranberry, lime, simple syrup and sparkling wine. It weighs in at the typical 43.4% ABV (86.8 proof) of these limited releases, with a $40 MSRP. But just how assertive will this stone fruity theme be, exactly? Let’s get to tasting, and find out.
On the nose, there’s no mistaking right away that this is powerfully fruit forward–it really jumps out and takes you by surprise, requiring a few moments to just adjust and recognize what it is exactly that you’re nosing. Fresh peach, apricot and especially passion fruit are hugely present here, but also an underlying fruitiness more akin to cantaloupe or melon. These aromatics are a bit on the candy-like side, like gin bubble gum, and my initial fear is that this spirit will read as overly sweet. Beneath the fruitiness, meanwhile, we’re getting sweet florals in full bloom, and hints of juniper.
On the palate, I’m relieved to find that despite the very prominent and assertive fruit notes carrying over, they’re really not combined with a high level of residual sweetness–this might actually be less sweet than last year’s Flora Adora was. The peach and passion fruit leap out again, combined with a more austere floral quality, but they then transition into a somewhat bitter and resinous juniper backbone. The press release and label both cite “sweet herbs,” but these are difficult to place without knowing more about the specific botanicals involved. Suffice to say, it’s the fruitiness that really takes center stage and demands most of your attention, but thankfully it doesn’t come with syrupy sweetness attached. In fact, it goes to dryness pretty quickly.
This is certainly an unusual profile, and it’s one odd enough that I felt like I had to also make a G&T before I could decide on an overall impression. I’m ultimately glad that I did, because this is where the gin starts to shine–here it’s decidedly softer, and has its more bombastic tendencies smoothed away. At the same time, plenty of the bright stone fruit character carries through the tonic and a squeeze of lime juice. In fact, this may still be too fruity or uncanny for some drinkers, but to me, consuming this with tonic more immediately illustrates its charms. All in all, it’s one of the most distinct and original installments in the Cabinet of Curiosities series to date. So make no mistake: This gin is in no way traditional.
Distillery: Hendrick’s Gin
City: Girvan, Scotland
Style: Modern gin
ABV: 43.4% (86.8 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $40 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.