It’s easy to get tripped up in an internal debate, when it comes to a “new” product in a very old style. A cynical writer … not that I know any … might be likely to discount the very idea of say, producing a new London dry gin from the U.K. to sit and gather dust alongside dozens of other, better-known brands on the shelf. What is there to say, we might argue, in a field where everything has been said? But at the same time, this kind of posturing has the potential to blind us from uncovering better versions of a classic style, well-executed examples that help the consumer to remember why a style is popular in the first place. And that’s an apt summary of Highclere Castle Gin.
The titular Highclere Castle is an elegant country mansion, built in 1679 and located in Hampshire, England, in the southeast of the country. Its sprawling estate would seem quite familiar to many American media consumers even if they’ve never been to the U.K., for one critical reason: It was the primary site of filming for the majority of the series Downton Abbey, filling in for that titular estate. Thus, it make perfect sense that the estate would today have its own gin brand, which does indeed draw botanicals from plants grown on site.
Those botanicals describe a pretty classical London dry gin, featuring the obvious (juniper, citrus) along with other noted botanicals such as lavender, lime flower (linden), angelica, licorice, coriander, cardamom and cassia. One not-so-common addition is oats grown on the grounds, and typically reserved for the local horses. These are not part of the mash, as one might expect, but are instead added to the tea bag with the other botanicals. The company says this is meant to provide a fuller, smoother texture, though I haven’t previously heard of oats being able to grant that characteristic without being mashed to create the base spirit. Regardless, most of the recipe here is quite familiar. It’s really in the execution that Highclere Castle Gin ultimately shows its quality.
So with that said, let’s get to tasting it.
On the nose, this is classical and quite aromatic, with big juniper throwing off lots of resin and a little rosemary, met by lightly perfumey florals and hints of lavender. There’s orange pith, and some brighter lemon oil, and modest spice notes of fresh pepper and coriander making for a classic experience.
The palate of Highclere Castle Gin is vivacious and inviting, with considerable juniper and slight berry fruitiness chased by moderate spice notes evoking cardamom and coriander. There’s a slightly cedar-like woodiness coming along with the resinous juniper, and a juicy orange note becomes easier to place over time as well. Fairly dry overall, with just a prickly of heat that is spot on for the 87 proof, this is very comfortably familiar but also offers more robust character than many comparable London dry gins.
At the end of the day, this gin is an argument in favor of playing the hits, but playing them well. When you can bring this level of refinement and balance to a classic style, there are few things more satisfying.
Distillery: Highclere Castle Gin, Langley Distillery
Region: U.K.
Style: London dry gin
ABV: 43.5% (87 proof)
Availability: 750 ml bottles, $35 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.