If you’ve been paying attention to the American whiskey world in the last year, beyond simply obsessing over bourbon as is the expectation, then you’ve likely noted the advent of American single malt whiskeys from major producers. For decades, malt whiskey made in the U.S. has maintained an underground niche as a general idea of “what makes an American single malt?” was built by the market. That definition is in the process of being officially codified now in a long-awaited but delayed move from the TTB, but the big players in the scene have clearly seen this as the right time to jump aboard the trend and attempt to establish their own malt flagships. And thus, we have American single malts from the likes of Jim Beam showing up, alongside products from companies that have been more focused on American single malt for years. Into that field, another new entrant has just arrived: Bulleit American Single Malt Whiskey.
Bottled entirely in recycled glass and weighing in at a midrange 45% ABV (90 proof), Bulleit American Single Malt seems to be another product from the Diageo brand with a nebulous origin story. Its label notes it was “bottled by Bulleit Distilling Co.,” but offers no hint at where it was distilled, much like the flagship Bulleit Bourbon. I confess that I am disappointed to see this–despite opening their own distillery to the public way back in 2017, it remains unclear when consumers will see any distillate that was actually produced by Bulleit Distilling Co. in Shelbyville, KY. Is it possible that their distillate has already been blended into batches of Bulleit Bourbon? Sure, but it’s impossible to say, as the veil of secrecy has long surrounded the Bulleit brand for whatever reason. Considering that this is a non-age-stated American single malt, meanwhile, I hoped that it would perhaps signify a product that was unmistakably a product of Bulleit’s facility in Kentucky. Instead, it feels likely to me that this hails from somewhere out of the state, given the brand’s choice to note that it was “bottled in Kentucky.” It’s a limited release for now, though Bulleit reportedly intends for it to reappear in the future.
Regardless, the basic specs of Bulleit Single Malt Whiskey line up pretty neatly with what one typically expects to find in this niche–non-age stated, mid strength, aged exclusively in newly charred white oak as would be done with bourbon. The biggest surprise, then, is to find that this whiskey actually deviates quite a bit from the typical American single malt formula.
So with that said, let’s get to tasting this new Bulleit release.
On the nose, there’s an immediate suggestion that this isn’t really the typical American single malt. It lacks the big malty sweetness and dried fruitiness so often found in these whiskeys, especially those aged in newly charred, “virgin” oak. Instead this takes a decidedly lighter touch, with a character more evocative of scotch or Irish whiskey–a little grassy, with honeycomb and a slight smoky savoriness. There’s smoked clove here and a little cinnamon, joined by earthy woodshed.
On the palate, these impressions hold true. Here I’m getting pine resin and needles, along with honey and dried herbs, and some campfire roastiness. Smoked bay leaf, anise and pleasant pear fruitiness are major players, with mild residual sweetness and some roasty astringency. It’s a significantly more delicate and herbal, unusual dram than I ever would have expected it to be, particularly coming from a larger American whiskey brand. I know that this is made with 100% malted barley, but what it perhaps reminds me of more than anything is the earthiness and spice often found in Irish single pot still whiskey, which is traditionally made with a portion of non-malted barley.
All in all, this is quite the novel approach. Bulleit has eschewed the malty sweetness found in most entries of this style, going for a lighter, more elegant spirit, albeit one that might read a bit odd to some consumers. Nor did this whiskey really draw out the caramels and vanillans typically found in most American single malts aged in charred oak barrels. It is really its own curious exploration into novel territory. Recommended for those who want to turn over a new leaf in the American single malt category.
Distillery: Bulleit Distilling Co.
City: Shelbyville, KY
Style: American single malt whiskey
ABV: 45% (90 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $60 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.