Since the debut of Heaven Hill’s Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon series back in 2020, it feels like I’ve been in the position of flip-flopping my opinion of these cask strength wheated bourbons on roughly an annual basis, never quite knowing what to think of them. The earliest expressions of Larceny BP, I must confess I didn’t particularly enjoy–their relative youth seemed to shine through a bit strongly for my taste, without the structure necessary to tame the high proof point. Over time, however, and particularly in the batches I tasted in 2022, I came to feel that the series might be progressing in a very good direction. This led to me tasting more Larceny BP batches in 2023, which didn’t particularly stand out to me. But taste is of course subjective–they stood out to someone, and that someone was none other than Fred Minnick, one of the best-known whiskey critics in the world, who ultimately awarded not one but two Larceny BP batches (A123, C923) the positions of his #2 and #3 American whiskeys of 2023. Suffice to say, this is huge for the Larceny Barrel Proof brand, and a major feather in Heaven Hill’s cap, and will likely result in increased attention on this particular series going forward.
Which means, of course, that this is a perfect time to examine the latest batch A124, which stands as the first major cask strength bourbon release of 2024. Per usual, this is from Heaven Hill’s wheated bourbon mash bill and aged roughly 6-8 years, with Batch A124 weighing in at 62.1% ABV (124.2 proof). It maintains an MSRP around $70, though for whatever reason Larceny BP is one of the few cask-strength bourbon brands where you occasionally hear about folks finding it for less than list price. That’s something I wouldn’t be surprised to see change, following Minnick’s praise in particular. So with that said, let’s get to tasting this new cask strength expression.
On the nose, Larceny Barrel Proof A124 combines some of the most common attributes of the series in an assertive way–lots of deep caramel and a certain deeply toasted maltiness, combined with slightly musty grain, vanilla, clove and nutmeg spice, and assertive dried fruit. That fruit is trending quite on the dark side, evoking black berries and prune, while some Heaven Hill nuttiness also pokes its head in, veering between roasted peanut and almond butter.
On the palate, this is really a rush up front–it’s quite sweet and quite hot right off the bat, effectively stunning my palate on the first sip. A core of strong caramel and vanilla is met by bombastic chile spice, pepper (I’m always, always surprised by how spicy the Heaven Hill wheated bourbon mash bill seems to read) and waves of fruit. That fruit has some fresher dark fruit tones (cherry, raspberry), but also significant dark dried fruitiness evoking raisin. The heat is tamped down a little bit on subsequent passes, but it remains both very sweet and very assertive–the proof is 124.2, but this is reading as something even bigger to me. Molasses and allspice round things out, in a profile that is slowly growing more appreciably complex as I nurse this dram.
All in all, Larceny BP A124 feels defined by the sheer size and power of its presentation. This is just punchy stuff, feeling bigger in pure stature than recent Elijah Craig Barrel Proof releases, but lacking the elegance afforded to those traditional bourbons by their significantly higher age statements. This is a real door burster, a take-no-prisoners flavor bomb. And although I don’t necessarily love every aspect–some of the younger, grain-forward impressions on the nose, in particular–I do quite enjoy the palate’s combination of fruit and dark sugars, once my own palate is able to adjust to its aggressiveness.
All in all, this is a swaggering wheated bourbon release that should definitely appeal to those seeking the boldest drams.
Distillery: Heaven Hill
City: Bardstown, KY
Style: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey (wheated bourbon)
ABV: 62.1% (124.2 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $70 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.