There’s no doubt that Michter’s was onto something big when they first released a batch of bourbon given a secondary maturation in toasted barrels back in 2014. It wasn’t that the concept of toasting barrels was somehow new–several of the largest Kentucky distilleries had always toasted their barrels before charring them. But using toasted (and not charred) barrels on their own, as a finishing touch, was a new development that directed attention squarely on how the flavors imparted by a toasted barrel can change a whiskey. The “toasted barrel” product was a hit, setting off a scramble for other major distilleries to bring their own “toasted” products to the market (of varying quality), while non-distiller producers such as Buzzard’s Roost built an entire business plan out of finishing sourced whiskey in proprietary toasted and lightly charred barrels. Indeed, the release of that first Michter’s bottle may have even set into motion developments that have influenced the evolution of the modern American whiskey barrel itself.
But what of rye whiskey? Well, Michter’s has been happy to give it the toasted treatment as well, albeit not quite as often. The newly released Michter’s Toasted Barrel Rye batch is the company’s first since 2020, and is presented at barrel strength. This is essentially the company’s US*1 Rye at barrel strength, with each mature barrel of rye being transferred “into a second barrel, made of special wood naturally air-dried and seasoned outdoors for 24 months and toasted to our specifications, but not charred,” according to Michter’s Master of Maturation Andrea Wilson. “The Toasted Barrel Finish Rye is designed to showcase the beautiful extractives from a toasted only finish barrel that impart remarkable character and contribute to an exceptional experience.”
This batch of Michter’s Toasted Barrel Rye has an average barrel proof of 54.45% (108.9 proof), though my sample appears to be 109.4 proof. It carries an MSRP of $120, though this is unlikely to be encountered in the wild, as many toasted Michter’s products are subject to particularly painful retailer price gouging.
So with that said, let’s get to tasting this newest Toasted Barrel Rye expression.
On the nose, I’m immediately picking up on the signature toasted marshmallow that is frequently picked up in these Michter’s toasted barrel expressions, with significant baking spice and cola spice as well. I’m getting the toasty oak barrels, along with bright cherry, somewhat subtle underlying rye spice and some herbal tones. The cola spice–cherry Coke-esque–stands out pretty prominently to me here on the nose.
On the palate, we are presented with a big, immediate rush of woody spice and baking spice, along with significant tobacco and toasted oak. The rye grain is there, with classical rye spice and pepper, along with more savory tobacco, along with milk chocolate and plum-like dark stone fruit. At the same time, however, it’s really the oak that steals the whole show, contributing complex spice box and marshmallow notes, along with significant tannin that leads to a fairly dry finish to what begins as a pretty sweet entry.
I often find that whiskeys finished in specifically toasted, uncharred barrels pick up a significant degree of tannin in addition to the desired warmth and spice profile that is often cited, and that is the case here. Ultimately, this drying tannin isn’t something that poses a problem for this batch of Michter’s Toasted Barrel Rye, but at the same time I do think the wood profile overshadows the base spirit to a certain extent. I find myself wondering what it might be like if the toasted character was simply applied a little bit more gently, but I have no doubt that much of the customer base will no doubt prefer it to be dialed up to this level. As is, this is one you’ll want to seek out if you really love that particular toasted oak dimension.
Distillery: Michter’s
City: Louisville, KY
Style: Straight rye whiskey
ABV: 54.45% (108.9 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $120 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident brown liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.