Anya Hindmarch’s The Ice Cream Project: When Household Groceries Get a Summer Makeover

Walking into artist Anya Hindmarch’s The Ice Cream Project, a concept store situated in the aesthetically pleasing streets of the affluent West London borough, Kensington and Chelsea, you’re immediately met with piles of brightly colored ice cream tubs labeled with the branding of globally recognizable household groceries. Somewhat reminiscent of Andy Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup cans—which at the time repositioned everyday food items as something aspirational—the project is perfect for those who want snaps for their social media, and it’s unique enough to catch the attention of passersby—although the main purpose of the store is to taste the curiously flavored ice cream on offer. 

Now in its second year and back by popular demand, The Ice Cream Project is not a stand-alone shop. Part of the wider Anya Village, a cluster of pop-up concept stores that change every six to eight weeks, the village includes a cafe and boutiques all tied together by the same theme. Previously, themes have included everything from a Christmas grotto to luxurious stationery, and there’s rumor that the next concept will reimagine the humble green grocer. 

The ice cream at the centre of this sought-after concept is made in a factory in Devon, and although this year showcases a host of new flavors, some, such as the Kikkoman Soy Sauce and Heinz Tomato Ketchup, have made a reappearance due to their popularity. Other flavors that were previously on offer range from delicious-sounding—Lyle’s Golden Syrup and Kellogg’s Frosties, for example—to downright disgusting, including the Heinz Baked Beans and Lea and Perrins’ Worcestershire sauce. 

Since the website reported potentially up to two hours wait time, I decided to hedge my bets on a rainy Saturday morning and get there while the shop was opening. Because I was one of only a few people who had braved the rain to try ketchup ice cream for breakfast, the team generously allowed me to try samples of all the ice cream on offer.

I decided to be bold and try the more questionable flavors first, finishing my tasting session with those more palatable, so as not to leave a bad taste in my mouth (literally). 

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The Taste Test

Heinz Ketchup 

This felt like it could be featured on a Michelin-star menu where everything comes as either a paste or a puree. It started off sweet and somewhat edible, and then, as the artificial tomato flavor came through, it became less pleasant. Rating: 2/5 

Branston Pickle 

The Branston Pickle flavor is pretty divisive at the best of times, so I was dreading tasting this one the most, and rightfully so. Branston Pickle is usually consumed with cheese and crackers or in a cheese sandwich, and their brown, chunky and sweet consistency is usually tempered by other flavors, which unfortunately was not the case with this ice cream. Rating: 0/5 

Birds Eye Petits Pois Sorbet 

When eyeing up the list of potentially horrendous/inoffensive/delicious combinations, I had the Birds Eye Petits Pois sorbet firmly in the middle, which proved to be accurate. Peas are bland, so it came as no surprise that this pea sorbet was also relatively bland. Rating: 2.5/5 

Blue Dragon Sweet Chili Sauce 

The first mouthful was horrible, but the team told me to persevere, as I was looking like I’d spit it out (they have tissues and bins prepared for this). At the end, though, it had a bit of a sweet and salty thing going on. Rating: 2.5/5

Kikkoman Soy Sauce 

I had high hopes for the Kikkoman soy sauce flavor, and I was not disappointed. After I’d wrapped my head around the idea, I convinced myself that soy sauce has a relatively neutral flavor, and luckily, something in my brain and my taste buds clicked. Creamy, smooth, almost like salted caramel and full of umami, this was my favorite of the unconventional flavors on offer. Rating: 5/5 

Kellogg’s Coco Pops

The best bit of eating a bowl of Coco Pops (which are like chocolate Rice Krispies) is when the chocolate coating on the krispies dissolve and you get to drink the milk. This flavor is exactly that, so what more could you ask for from a Coco Pops ice cream? Rating: 5/5 

Maldon Salt Sorbet

Salt sorbet may not sound very appealing; however, when it’s mixed with rich dark chocolate, as it is here, it’s heavenly. Rating: 5/5

Warbutons Crumpets

I was really excited for this flavor since I absolutely love crumpets, but although it wasn’t bad, the crumpet pieces in the ice cream had a slightly rubbery texture, and I was a little disappointed the flavor didn’t come through as much as I’d hoped. Rating: 3.5/5

Wilkin & Sons Lemon Curd

As I’ve been known to eat lemon curd out of the jar with a spoon, it was a no-brainer that I’d love this flavor. Richer than a sorbet, tart and sweet, this was one of the flavors I’d buy if it was available in the regular supermarket (so it’s probably a good thing it isn’t!). Rating: 5/5 

Ambrosia Rice Pudding 

The normal flavor of rice pudding is sweet but also borderline bland; what people usually have trouble getting over is the texture. Without the lumpiness, the flavor is enjoyable, but nothing to shout about. Rating: 3/5

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The Verdict 

Despite it being only 10:30 in the morning, after all the freebies, I thought I really ought to buy a scoop. Since I thought it would feel like a bit of a cop-out if I went for one of the conventionally delicious flavors, I went for the best of the alternative bunch and decided on a scoop of the creamy soy sauce. 

I was curious to find out what other people went for, so I asked the staff what other less-conventional flavors patrons were buying. They told me that some people had come back after trying several flavors and had actually bought tubs of the Branston Pickle ice cream. Why? It’s an interesting talking point at a dinner party! 

I really enjoyed my trip to The Ice Cream Project. In a world where food snobbery so often takes precedence over novelty or even enjoyment, clever marketing ploy or not, this was definitely an experience that put the fun back into food.