Greetings From Fairhope, Alabama

Cozied up to the eastern bank of Mobile Bay, little Fairhope, Ala., (population 17,000) is big on charm. It offers plenty of things to see and do, but a large part of this coastal community’s appeal lies in its invitation to simply be. An abundance of natural beauty and bay breezes beg you to slow down, stroll leisurely through shops and galleries, gaze at the horizon where sky and water melt together, and think deep thoughts.

It’s what drew the city’s founders to the spot in 1908, a place they believed held a “fair hope of success” for their progressive idea of a single-tax colony. Ever since, it has beckoned artists, writers and other creatives, and today, it draws visitors searching for a relaxed weekend full of good food, great shopping and a bit of outdoor adventure.

Day One

Morning
Begin your stay with some time in downtown Fairhope, one of Alabama’s prettiest small-town city centers, and head straight to Panini Pete’s. Tucked into downtown’s tiny French Quarter area, it’s a local favorite that’s garnered national attention with a selection of pressed sandwiches of the finest veggies, meats and cheeses melted together. You could wait for lunch, but its breakfast options are just as enticing. Try the Green Eggs and Ham Panino, a hot handful of basil-infused scrambled eggs, sliced tomatoes, mortadella and sharp provolone on sourdough bread. And don’t leave without trying Pete’s take on beignets—best enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon. Take your food outside to the courtyard and snag a seat by the bubbling fountain.

Panini Pete’s Photo: Jennifer Stewart Kornegay

Leave Pete’s and take a few minutes to learn about Fairhope’s multi-faceted past at the Museum of History, housed in the city’s first municipal building. The restored Spanish Mission Revival structure features exhibits and photos that outline its founders’ utopian dreams based on the philosophy of “collective individualism” as well as the area’s first fire truck and the original jail.

Next, visit the Eastern Shore Art Center, an education facility and gallery that offers classes and workshops and shows off the talents of the many artists who call the area home and are inspired by its beauty and free-thinking vibe. Browse the rotating exhibits to find watercolors depicting local flora and fauna, mosaics, funky pottery, folk art, and graceful sculptures.

There’s a good chance that some of the art on display will focus on the abundant seafood harvested from the bay and nearby Gulf of Mexico. If gazing at renderings of plump shrimp, big blue crabs and oysters has you salivating, you can sate that craving at the Gumbo Shack, just a few blocks away. A piano-playing pig in sunglasses dominates its sign, and a small porch fronts the “shack,” which isn’t much to look at, outside or in. But folks don’t flock here for the logo or the decor. They come for the rich, slightly spicy gumbo: Creole-style broth, thickened with a tomato-based roux and packed with chicken and Andouille sausage that you can embellish with your choice of shrimp, crab, crawfish or oysters (or all four).

Afternoon
After lunch, walk downtown’s flower-basket- and flower-bed-lined streets, where you’ll find myriad shopping options that can fill hours. Pass the old men lounging on benches and follow the herds of well-dressed women to upscale boutiques like Cat’s Meow and Luxx Studio, a new shop offering haute resort and active attire. To outfit your kitchen or dining room with cool vintage cooking implements and antique fine china, tables and chairs head to Aubergine. The best literary depot in town is Page & Palette, which occupies a corner and frequently hosts readings and signings with both bay area and other Alabama authors. Buy some art fashioned by Fairhope hands at the Christine Lindon Gallery to take a piece of your trip home.

Aubergine Photo: Jennifer Stewart Kornegay

Evening
On the edge of downtown, Pier Park is the place to rest your weary feet. Find a perch on the grassy bluff overlooking the bay or make your way onto the pier stretching over the water and pause to smell the sea air while watching gulls and pelicans scan the surface for their dinner.