Checklist: Cartagena
Photos by Zosia SwidlickaIn many ways, Colombia continues to be an undiscovered and underrated destination for travelers. Having built up a bad reputation for itself over many years, it’s starting to shed its former skin and step into the limelight as the beautiful debutante it always was.
The colonial city of Cartagena is the perfect place from which to start your explorations of this bountiful region. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for boasting the most extensive fortifications of South America, much of its charm can be extracted from a stroll around its historic center. But that’s not all; the coastal city is surrounded by soaring summits, wild jungle and unspoiled beaches that haven’t been destroyed by tourism in the same way that other South American destinations have. Whether you’re in need of some R&R or are looking for adventure, you’ll find it here. Prepare to be surprised.
1. The Casablanca B&B
Photo courtesy of Casablanca B&B
The Casablanca B&B is a hotel you will look forward to returning to at the end of the day, even if that means your Cartagena explorations have come to an end. However, if you can’t stay here, you should at least pop by or get a day pass to check out its charm. Situated within the walls of the historic center, the interior was designed by a prestigious Bogotá-based architecture firm who preserved much of the original colonial architecture. Minimal interventions keep the space at once utterly modern and authentically ancient, with all the walls and surfaces painted white to contrast against the rainbow of colors on the streets outside. The roof terrace provides a chilled, private spot for sunbathing and reading away from the crowds, and the rooms are airy with an emphasis on space. Fresh papaya, passion fruit and pineapple are served for breakfast along with eggs and local delicacies. Oh, and did we mention the hotel boasts not one but two pools? One on the roof and one in the courtyard.
2. Doorknockers in the Old Town
Stroll around the Old Town for just a few minutes and you’ll notice something peculiar about the entrances to the colonial buildings lining the narrow streets. The gigantic wooden doors inlayed into its colorful facades are adorned with a striking variety of symbols. From lizards and lions to mermaids and bearded dragons, Cartagena’s doorknockers are just as captivating as its locals. Once you spot one, you’ll see them everywhere you go in the El Centro area. The metalwork has been immaculately preserved so that its ornate intricacy is visible from afar. Once an emblem of status, the doorknocker designs originate from the medieval era, when social hierarchies were clearly defined. Status was conveyed through size and shape. A lizard was a sign of royalty, while the mermaid likely belonged to a family of the merchant class. Nowadays they make great content for your Instagram.
3. Getsemani
Once a no-go zone for travelers, Getsemani has cleaned up its act and reinvented itself as the city’s most diverse neighborhood. Wander down narrow streets of colorful houses, admire the street art and watch children play a ferocious game of soccer in the shadow of a 17th century church. Plaza de la Trinidad is its beating heart; locals and travelers alike congregate here every night to watch performers, snack on warm empanadas and enjoy the cool breeze under the stars. The city’s trendiest bars can be found on the arteries coming off the square; once you’ve warmed up with a mojito or two, head to legendary live music club Café Havana, a former rundown warehouse that retains much of its weathered origins. Between the unrelenting salsa and potent cocktails, you’re guaranteed to spin faster than the ceiling fan in your hotel bedroom.
4. Restaurante Carmen