A Grand Weekend in Grand Rapids

As a teenager, I longed to visit Grand Rapids for two reasons: the western Michigan city lent the setting for American Pie, my favorite movie at the time, and reared Anthony Kiedis of The Red Hot Chili Peppers, my rock ‘n’ roll idol. In adulthood, as my appreciation for good beer burgeoned, Grand Rapids piqued my curiosity yet again. Home to Founder’s, Bell’s, and a roster of nationally acclaimed breweries, Grand Rapids is one of America’s great craft beer capitals, in the same elite echelon as Asheville, Fort Collins, or Portland.

While all that hoppy ambrosia is alone worth the visit, Grand Rapids’ charms extend far beyond its coveted taprooms. For all-American comfort fare like smash burgers, beer cheese, and chili dogs, you simply cannot do better than Grand Rapids. And, with excellent museums, botanical gardens, and a dynamic music scene, Michigan’s second-largest city stimulates the mind as well as the belly.

Grand Rapids falls into that nebulous category between large town and small city, graced with the friendliness of the former and the cosmopolitanism of the latter. Founded as a frontier trading post in the early 19th century, the city boomed after the completion of the Grand Rapids and Indiana railroad in 1854, attracting throngs of immigrants from Germany and Holland. For my money, this quaint Midwest ‘burg encapsulates all the charm of Middle America—neighborly denizens, leafy streets, and a strong sense of regional pride. So, grab yourself an espresso from MadCap Coffee, or, if you have a brewery crawl in store, fuel up at Matchbox Diner, and relish the quirky delights of Beer City, USA.

Sample Legendary Breweries

Grand Rapids

Founder’s. Bell’s. New Holland. City Built. Brewery Vivant. Western Michigan punches well above its weight for celebrated breweries. Whether it’s the pristine water or the deep Bavarian roots, Grand Rapids rears world-class brewers like West Texas produces football phenoms or New Orleans virtuosic musicians. In addition to the big boys beloved by beer nerds the world over, scores of small, niche breweries—hyper-specialized in anything from sours or stouts to Belgian abbey ales—smatter the city’s handsome avenues.

Truth be told, unless you have the hepatic fortitude of a Victorian midshipman, you can’t possibly hit every worthy brewery in Grand Rapids in a single weekend. For first-time visitors, I recommend a medley of classic and new. Pay homage, of course, to Founder’s, Bell’s, and the likes, but also check out the new kids on the block—Speciation Cellars and Brass Ring are excellent smaller operations, specializing in sours and cask ales, respectively. Grand Rapids Beer Tours, a coach bus shuttling thirsty patrons between breweries, offers an excellent way to try a handful of famous taprooms in one afternoon. The bus pauses for about 45 minutes in each brewery, and tour guide Brian explains Grand Rapids’ history while playing RHCP deep cuts along the ride. HopCat, a buzzing tavern with dozens of Michigan beers on tap, is another great way to check off a spate of breweries in one place.

Nosh on Midwestern Comfort Food

Most breweries’ kitchens match the high quality of the beer, and scrumptious pub grub like nachos, fried chicken sandos, or pretzels slathered in beer cheese is never hard to find in Grand Rapids. If you’ve got a soft spot for Midwestern comfort food like smash burgers, chili dogs, and malted milkshakes, boy, are you in the right town. Stella’s Lounge, a punkish dive bar downtown, has garnered a cult following for its burger, a thick patty smeared with cheeses, special sauce, and fried jalapenos—ranked the tastiest in America by GQ Magazine.

Yesterdog, a diner festooned with vintage Coca-Cola signs, 1950s kitsch, and other such Americana, has been a Michigan chili dog institution for decades. American Pie writer and Grand Rapids native, Adam Herz, based the film’s local hang-out, Dog Years, on Yesterdog. Snappy franks slathered with light chili and sprinkled with potato sticks and chopped onions, these are hot dogs that could inspire John Mellencamp ballads. After tucking into a tray of chili dogs, take a stroll through the neighborhood of Eastown. Awash with street art, music stores, and funky restaurants, Eastown is Grand Rapids’ answer to Bushwick or Silverlake.

Explore The Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park

Anyone interested in architecture, history, botany, or art should set aside an afternoon to meander through The Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park. The gardens, housed within ornate greenhouses adorned with fountains and statuary, make for a soothing stroll, and you could spend several peaceful hours enjoying the complex’s outdoor sculptures, art galleries, and wooded trails. A short walk from the gardens is a replica of a Michigan pioneer farm, complete with an herb garden, 19th-century barn, and farmhouse. Keep an eye out for Tom Otterness’s sculptures—you might recognize his work from the New York City subway.

Kick Back in a Rock or Jazz Venue

I hold a theory, yet to be fully investigated, that locales with dark, gloomy weather for much of the year—take Michigan or Seattle, for example—tend to do three things very well: beer, coffee, and heavy metal (or its close kin, grunge and emo). Metal and the Midwest go together like Slipknot concerts and teenage angst, and you can catch shredding guitarists and screaming vocalists on several well-known stages around Grand Rapids. Check out the line-up at The Intersection; in addition to metal acts, the spacious club hosts its fair share of country and hip-hop artists. Each year in July, armies of black-clad, gauge-flaunting metal heads converge on Grand Rapids for Upheaval, a four-day festival summoning the hardest-driving rockers in the biz.

If Death Metal isn’t exactly your cup of Chardonnay, Grand Rapids is also home to a thriving jazz scene. GRNoir is an after-dinner favorite for live jazz—dulcet rhythms that pair beautifully with the bar’s creative cocktails, small bites, and thoughtfully curated wine menu.

Where to Stay in Grand Rapids

The historic Amway Grand Plaza is a Beaux-Arts belle in downtown, harkening back to Grand Rapids’ heyday as a railroad boomtown. Former president Gerald Ford, a son of Grand Rapids, stayed here whenever he was in town. The ornate lobby is home to one of the world’s largest gold-leaf ceilings as well as several lively watering holes. Rooms, about $110 per night, are quiet and comfortable. Amenities include tennis courts, a pool, and a decent gym. If you need a break from beer, inquire about the hotel’s speakeasy, IDC, short for “I Don’t Care,” for cocktails, wine, and cozy outdoor fireplaces.

While at the Amway, take a stroll along the promenade and regal bridges of the Grand River, just a stone’s throw from the hotel. If you fancy some outdoor exercise, the concierge at Amway Grand Plaza can hook you up with a kayak.

Johnny Motley has written for The Daily Beast, Matador Network, Cool Material, and more. He’s on Twitter @johnnymotley and Instagram @motjohnny.