13 Things To Do in Oaxaca, Mexico
All photos from Unsplash
Known for its colorful, picturesque streets, its bustling markets, and its hand-woven and natural-dyed textiles, Oaxaca is a city in the state of the same name in the southwest of Mexico. Walking around any time of day, you’ll encounter mezcal and an abundance of mouthwatering food—stringy quesillo, seven types of thick mole, and cinnamon and almond infused hot chocolate, modeled after tejate, the pre-hispanic drink of the gods—usually accompanied by some salsa or cumbia music. While there you can learn about Oaxaca’s rich and complex history, from the legacy of the Zapotec and Mixtec people, to the victories of indigenous sovereignty today. You’ll likely see sit-ins and protests for improvements to the education system as well as feminist street art and graffitti. Although many visitors spend two or three days passing through Oaxaca, it’s worth staying longer so you can to get to know this multifaceted historical city. As you enjoy all that Oaxaca has to offer, remember to be courteous to the residents of the city, tip around 10% at restaurants, and don’t expect people to know English—this is the moment to use all the Spanish vocabulary you’ve gathered over the years!
Here’s what you need to do whenever you’re in Oaxaca.
1. People Watch at the Zócalo
The Zócalo is Oaxaca’s central square. Bordered by the majestic Catedral Metropolitana de Oaxaca, the Zócalo is always bustling. It’s easy to pass a few hours people watching on a bench, perhaps with a cup of cold, frothy chocolate frio from the window of Restaurant Mayordomo on the northwest corner of the square. Depending on the time of day, you’ll probably see street performers, live musicians, fortune tellers, clothing and craft sellers, families, dogs, mobile food vendors, and many more surprises. Be sure to browse the craft market stalls that are set up around the square too.
2. Explore the Ancient Zapotec Ruins
Monte Albán is the biggest and most well known site of ruins in Oaxaca. It was a Zapotec metropolis that was later inhabited by the Mixtec people. It’s worth taking around two hours to wander around. Be prepared for crowds, bring water and a hat since there’s not much shade, and consider hiring a guide to explain the different structures and histories. If you’d like to visit archaeological sites further off the beaten path, stop by Mitla, a smaller complex that still has some tour groups, or Yagul, which is quite large but usually much emptier.
3. Take Spanish Classes
If you don’t already know some Spanish, you will likely realize it is helpful to know at least a few words and phrases to get around Oaxaca. Plus, it allows you to speak to the locals and learn about their city through their eyes. If you’d like to go a step further than Duo Lingo, consider signing up for classes at Becari Language School. They offer group and individual classes every weekday and schedules ranging from regular to super-intensive. The lessons start at $150 USD for 15 hours of classes a week, and you’ll find yourself using your Spanish at the markets, on the buses, and in the mezcalerías in no time.
4. Wander through the Markets
There are two markets just a block or two away from the Zócalo that are absolutely worth visiting. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the perfect place to get traditional Oaxacan food, from enchiladas con mole to chocolate caliente to fresh juices from fruits endemic to the region. Each restaurant has bar-style counters to enjoy your meal. Right next door, Mercado Benito Juárez is full of everything from chapulines (grasshoppers) to tejate (a pre-Hispanic maize and cacao drink) to fresh fruits and veggies to candy to incense to pottery to clothing, and much more.
5. Climb Up to the Cross
From many parts of the city, you’ll see a big cross on a hill in the distance. Although there is no marked path, you can climb up to the cross and watch the sunset over the city. Head towards the north east of the city and ask locals for directions. There is a steep road through a residential neighborhood that becomes a gravel road that eventually turns into a walking path. You might get slightly lost along the way, but don’t give up—it’s all part of the adventure.
6. Learn About Oaxacan Weaving at Teotitlan del Valle
Oaxacan weaving is famous for its rich colors and Zapotec symbolism. Many weavers are based in Teotitlan del Valle, a small town outside of the city. To get there, you can hire a taxi (a few hundred pesos) or hop on a bus or colectivo (20-50 pesos). After a ride of about 30 minutes, you will have arrived. Several homes will provide free demonstrations of how they weave: making the wool into yarn, dyeing the yarn with natural colors made from plants and an insect called cochinilla, and using hand looms to create a design. Be sure to leave a tip or purchase a weaving from the family’s shop. Afterwards, wander around the various weaving shops and visit the Centro Cultural Comunitario, where you can learn more about the Zapotec history and traditions that go into each weaving.