Tenerife flies under the radar when it comes to Spain. One of the Canary Islands that lies closer to the Moroccan coast than to the Spanish mainland, Tenerife could be the coolest island in the world. It has a staggering amount of things to experience for its diminutive, duck-shaped size measuring 50 miles long and thirty miles wide—arid deserts, lush forests, mighty volcanoes, vibrant nightlife, dazzling starry skies, and much more.
Tenerife is also very easy to reach from the United States. United Airlines offers frequent, direct flights from Newark Liberty International every week. After a quick eight-hour trip across the Atlantic, enjoying the charms of this underrated, magical island has never been easier. Here’s just some of what makes it so special.
North Tenerife
North Tenerife, being slightly closer to Spain, is noted for its spirited history. This liveliness is especially present at the beginning of the year in Santa Cruz de Tenerife, the capital and largest city on the island. With the year-round pleasing climate, there isn’t a wrong time to visit, but the annual Carnaval celebration in February or March is especially not to be missed. While the famed fetes in Europe and especially Rio are better known, the party in Santa Cruz is the second largest in the world with the energy to match. Upwards of half a million masqueraded revelers come to party here during the celebration, where the city’s streets explode with costumes, glitter, dancing, and music. If you’re in the mood for something a little more low-key, look no further than the endearing hilltop winery of Bodega El Lomo on the outskirts of town. Enjoy a refreshing glass of famous Canary wine, locally made right on the premises from vines fueled by rich, volcanic soil, paired with gourmet appetizers as you feel the breeze on your face from the sweeping sight overlooking the Tegueste Valley.
You can’t go wrong with a stay at the Hotel Botanico in Puerto de la Cruz, offering a central location to the treasures of northern Tenerife. From the inviting, hanging art piece in the hotel’s foyer, the whole complex, originally built in the 1970s, is like something out of a dream that begs exploration. Book a room in a comfy accommodation with views of Mt. Teide, or stay in the fully loaded Michael Jackson suite, where the renowned king of pop himself once stayed during a visit. Marvel at the diverse greenery and the warm air in the sprawling botanical garden outside, or unwind at the Oriental spa, which offers a staggering amount of ways to indulge the senses—hop into a Turkish bath or one of the sauna rooms, mix it up afterward with some hot/cold therapy with the cryo room, or simply soothe the senses with a sensual massage from one of the master masseuses. The hotel offers a well-equipped gym and ornate yoga studio, and you’ll get plenty of fuel from your workout at one of the resort’s four delectable restaurants, offering steak, Italian, Thai, and authentic Spanish cuisine whose expert chefs will dazzle your palette with their galaxy of flavors.
The otherworldly surroundings continue when you step outside, trading in the opulence of the Hotel Botanico for the surreal, storybook forest trails of Anaga Rural Park. The influence of the interior elevation and the local trade winds create a relatively wet climate of “horizontal rain” that makes this half of Tenerife burst alive with colorful flora. The dense foliage, a part of Tenerife’s Laurissilva, is one of the rarest forest biome types in the world. The soft, verdant hues of the trails and their gentle leaves imbue a sense of dreamlike wonder in whose greenery it is easy to get lost within as you wander.
North Tenerife is known for its Spanish history and Latin American influence due to a large diaspora of islanders emigrating to Venezuela and Cuba and later returning. There’s no better way to experience this side of Tenerife than through the guided experience of a local. Book a tour with Jaime Muñoz of Feel Tenerife (@feel_tenerife), an island native. It’s hard not to get hooked by his passion as he guides you through the stories and layered charms of historic towns just waiting to be told by these charming, weathered streets. Feel Tenerife offers a truly memorable, in-depth experience—marvel at the colorful Spanish houses, taste a plate of fresh fish from atop a welcoming seaside balcony from La Cofradia, and relish the beautifully manicured pools at Lago Martiánez in Puerto de la Cruz. Gaze in awe at the accumulated years in the architecture of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, whose historic center doubles as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Stroll the beautiful gardens, see the history of the Casa de Las Balcones, and take in the expansive, majestic vistas of Teide down to the Atlantic in La Orotava. Finally, hang out at the natural pools in Garachico, created from a former volcanic eruption that destroyed large chunks of the town but left behind one of Tenerife’s most spectacular natural attractions perfect for relaxing on a summer day.
These natural “piscinas” are only one of many attractions created by Tenerife’s volcanoes. Let’s say you want to get away from the bustle of the towns and go on a nice hike somewhere—how about a memorable journey into the depths of the planet? Check out the Cueva del Viento, or “Cave of the Wind.” “Cave” is actually a misnomer here—this is a lava tube, which have origin stories as metal as their names. Lava tubes form from hot magma flows literally punching holes into the soil, and the path their fiery onslaught makes ultimately leaves behind the caves once they’ve cooled off. Despite feeling like you’re traversing down into the very bowels of the Earth, because the magma is flowing down the side of a volcano, the tubes are never more than a foot or two from the surface. The cooling process also yields a few features within the lava tubes. You can’t help but observe the shelves on the sides, formed as a direct result of the layered cooling process, whose strangely flat surface is oddly perfect for groups to take a seat. The chaotic ceiling and floor—whose little miniature spires lie twisted in all sorts of gnarled configurations—is also a byproduct of this process. You might also notice the absence of bats—the jagged lack of any uniformity in the surfaces actually breaks up sonar sent from the flying critters, rendering them unable to navigate the tubes. You might also feel the very unexpected sensation of a breeze as you explore the otherworldly subterranean depths, which seems impossible given the underground nature of the surroundings. This breeze is the namesake “wind” of the cave, formed via a temperature differential between the warm surface and the cool tube interior that drives airflow throughout the cave system.
South Tenerife
South Tenerife looks different enough from North Tenerife that it’s hard to believe it’s part of the same island. The vibrant forests are suddenly swapped out for arid scenery and cacti. The relative lack of rain in this part of the island, located only a few hundred miles from the Sahara Desert, also results in beautiful, open skies filled with stars and charms intrinsic to the region.
South Tenerife, especially in Costa Adeje, is filled with upscale shopping districts, wild nightlife, and luxurious, all-inclusive resorts. Consider a stay at the GF Victoria. You’ll be walking distance to everything Costa Adeje has to offer: carefree seaside bars, animated beach clubs, and all the shopping and Spanish cuisine your heart could desire—that is, if you’re able to pull yourself away from the resort’s many charms. The maze-like complex offers two gyms, a yoga room, a comforting Bio-Spa, and a rooftop bar, whose infinity pool with its transparent floor invokes the sensation of flying, and where the soft, blue lights that turn on after-hours conjures a sense of calm to admire the surrounding island scenery. The hotel offers an assortment of laid-back pools, including one that is clothing-optional on the upper floors, perfect for lazing in the sun or diving into a good book. It gets to a point where it’s hard to keep track of everything there is to do here. It offers fun for all ages with a water park, a wave pool, miniature golf, and an obstacle course with ziplines, suspension bridges, tree houses, and climbing walls. The fancy restaurants offer an assortment of delicious tapas that are perfect to imbibe alongside the sounds of weekly Spanish flamenco, or consider captivating your senses with the intrigues of the burlesque Scandal Dinner Show.
No trip to South Tenerife is complete without a visit to the towering cliffs of Los Gigantes. “The Giants” in English, it is hard to see them as anything but once you see the lofty walls rising from the ocean to heights upwards of 800 meters. While they are pleasing to see from a distance, there is only one way to get the full immersive experience of their dizzying heights: right in front of them by kayak. The nearby marina offers daily excursions over the water to the celebrated facades. While it’s easy to be sucked into the deep shades of the bright, piercing blues of the surrounding water and the sense of height imposed by the cliffs, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins that are known to populate these waters. You’ll see the typical grey variety, but you might also notice a darker version that almost seems alien-like—these are pilot whales, a marine mammal that is part of the dolphin family.
Once you’ve seen the northern and southern halves of Tenerife, there is only one direction to go—up! It is nearly impossible to miss the sight of Mount Teide visibly dominating the scenery from just about everywhere on the island. Teide isn’t just the largest volcano in Tenerife—it’s also the highest point in Spain and the third-highest volcano in the world. Teide, also known as Father Teide to the locals, is the centerpiece of Teide National Park, an absolute can’t-miss for hiking lovers. The imposing volcano presents a very different scene on the island, given its elevation and volcanic origins. As you approach the park, note how all the trees begin to disappear, and the surroundings turn into a strange, silent, otherworldly blend of black and red. See if you can spot the evidence of previous lava flows through the difference in color of the ubiquitous volcanic rocks. Nature enthusiasts ought to consider a stay at Hotel Villalba, whose cozy lodging, classy restaurant, and location near Teide offers trails and a secluded outdoor experience wholly unique within Tenerife.
Teide doesn’t just boast idyllic trails and put on a show during the day. Don’t miss the park at night, where the full weight of the stars fully impressing down upon stunned viewers must be experienced. The best way to roam the heavens is through a tour with eco-guide Jean-Guy (@ecoguidejean on Instagram), whose knowledge of the cosmos is infectious. Embark on a sensational voyage through the galaxies and constellations, explored with both telescopes and the naked eye, that will undoubtedly leave an impression upon stunned stargazers and a little more knowledge of the heavens above.
John Sizemore is a travel writer, photographer, yoga teacher, and visual entertainment developer based out of Austin, Texas. Follow him on Instagram at @sizemoves. In his downtime, John likes to learn foreign languages and get immersed in other worlds, particularly those of music, film, games, and books in addition to exploring the world.