7 Cookbooks for Serious Chocolate Lovers
Photo by Charity Burggraaf, courtesy of Sasquatch BooksSure, most everyone likes chocolate—especially in desserts. Search for “chocolate cookbook” on Amazon.com and you’ll get 2,862 results, from a volume of chocolate mug cakes to multiple collections of Paleo chocolate recipes.
But not all of those chocolate cookbooks are a good fit for the high-quality artisan chocolates that have proliferated in the past 15 years. There’s not only a significant flavor difference between a box of Baker’s German Sweet Chocolate from the grocery store baking aisle and block of 82 percent cacao single-origin chocolate from that enticing display at Whole Foods; there’s a performance difference, too. Because fat and sugar contents vary greatly based on cacao percentage, there’s no longer a one-size-fits all “dark chocolate” for baking.
While we’re not the type of people to claim mass-market baking chocolate does not deserve a place in the dessert repertoire, we are more than happy to encourage you to get the most out of your chocolate investment when you are springing for the good stuff. These are the cookbooks to reach for when you want to do right by your favorite artisan chocolate. Most of them specify a range of cacao percentages in recipes when it’s crucial, and and they all strive for flavor, not just ooey-gooey sugar bombs.
Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate by Alice Medrich
Though plenty has changed in the bean-to-bar chocolate scene since this book’s 2003 publication, it’s still the top go-to resource for working with artisan chocolate. Medrich, a former chocolate shop owner who was around at the very beginnings of what we’ll call the American Chocolate Revolution, breaks the ins and outs down in a way that’s easy to understand and apply. In the book’s appendix, she offers formulas for converting recipes so you can swap, say, a 62 percent cacao chocolate with unsweetened chocolate. Medrich also has an openness to turning tired procedures on their heads, leading to handy techniques like popping a hot pan of brownies in the freezer to ensure dense and fudgy results.
Medrich’s complete revision of Bittersweet is 2013’s Seriously Bitter Sweet, which is probably the best book for newbies to seek out, since its information is more current (and current information is a better reflection of Medrich’s meticulous nature). However, just as some cooks prefer an older edition of The Joy of Cooking, I happily cling to my 2003 copy of Bittersweet because it’s the book that showed me the ropes.
The Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate by Robert Steinberg and John Scharffenberger
Founded in 1996, Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker was at the forefront of the bean-to-bar chocolate movement. There are fewer than a dozen chocolate makers in America at that time, and now there are seemingly new artisan chocolate makers launching every week. Scharffen Berger was one of the first American chocolate makers to emphasize the importance of sourcing flavorful cacao beans and crafting chocolate to best highlight their character.
So how does that come to play in this cookbook? Written by Scharffen Berger co-founders John Scharffenberger and the late Robert Steinberg, the book devotes significant pages to how cacao is grown and processed, so the reader can approach recipes with the broader picture of all the elements in mind. Scharffen Berger is now owned by Hershey, and their chocolate is made in New Jersey instead of their Berkeley factory (full disclosure: I used to work there), a move that has tarnished the company’s shine in the eyes of some chocolate aficionados. However, their chocolate is still excellent, their imprint on chocolate making is undeniable, and the book’s recipe for Basil-Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream is killer.