Native Grapes: Tasting Two Schiavas From Alto Adige, Italy

If you drink wine, you’re probably acquainted with the most well-known international varieties, like Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling and Merlot. But many of the world’s greatest wine-growing regions also boast native varieties, which are often grown in limited quantities. In this series, we’ll expand our wine horizons and take a deeper look at some of the world’s most interesting native grapes.

Beyond the idyllic beaches of Sicily and the teeming streets of Naples, beyond the monuments of Rome and canal-lined alleys of Venice, tucked into a corner of northern Italy is Alto Adige, also called Südtirol, one of the country’s smallest wine regions. The wines from here may not be as well-known as Barolo or Brunello, but the region does boast a host of native grape varieties in addition to the more famous international grapes, like Pinot Noir, that it’s gained a reputation for.

Among these native grapes is Schiava, also known by its German name, Vernatsch, a red grape that produces a light red wine that often features notes of tart raspberry, rose and cotton candy. If you’re a fan of Beaujolais Nouveau or other light, sometimes chilled, easily drinkable reds, there’s a good chance that you’ll enjoy Schiava as well.

In the past, Schiava dominated plantings in Alto Adige; the majority of land dedicated to vineyards was planted with the grape. But according to Clemens Lageder of winery Alois Lageder, in the 1970s and ‘80s, the grape was mostly being used for bulk wine production, and the quality was not good. “In the ‘70s, ‘80s, people were starting to plant more specific clones, all the same, very homogenic, driven on quantity and sugar ripeness.” But previous to that transition to bulk wine production, Schiava was being used to make quality wine. “A hundred years ago, Schiava was an amazing, interesting grape variety, and especially [because] there was a huge difference of types of Schiava.” That genetic diversity, which included several different clones of the grape, helped produce better, more complex wine.

In the ‘80s, winemakers in the region started to realize that the climate could support the production of a variety of white grapes, and Schiava plantings dwindled from 70% of total vineyard acreage to just 9% currently, according to Harald Cronst, export manager at Cantina Kurtatsch. That may sound like a negative for the grape, but it’s not. Because Schiava is now more focused in the areas in which it grows best, these days, Schiava is once again producing interesting, high-quality wines. “The great thing about that change is that now we have almost exclusively great sites of Schiava vineyards left, most of the time with 50+ year old vines, which with precise viticulture and lower yields deliver a total different, much higher-quality Schiava than it was back in the days,” says Cronst.

Much of the Schiava you’ll find on the market is fun, fresh and designed to be drunk young. Wines from some from the best sites, though, can age for 10 to 15 years or perhaps even longer. “Check both out,” advises Cronst, “but make sure to spend those few dollars more [on] the top quality Schiavas, as they usually deliver so much more!”

I tried two Schiavas from two different Alto Adige producers.

2022 Alois Lageder Schiava Alto Adige DOC

This young, fresh expression of Schiava from Alois Lageder is the kind of soft, smoothly textured red you want to serve at a fun, unfussy dinner party. At only 11% alcohol, it’s something you can pour a few glasses of without worrying that you’ll wake up in the morning with a pounding headache, and its subtle notes of red raspberry, violet and white pepper make it easy to pair with a wide range of dishes.

Cantina Kurtatsch Sonntaler Vernatsch Alte Reven Schiava 2022 DOC

Cantina Kurtatsch’s Sonntaler Schiava comes from the winery’s oldest vineyards, with vines spanning 60 to 90 years of age. Vines of this age generally produce lower yields and therefore higher-quality grapes. Grapes grown from several different Schiava clones were used to make this wine, yielding a complexity you won’t always find in this variety. Yes, it’s easily drinkable, but it’s also a wine that demands to be taken seriously. You’ll find notes of tart red fruit like cherries and redcurrants in the glass with a hint of smoke and rose.

When you’re ready to expand your Italian wine horizons beyond Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, find a Schiava to sample—it may become one of your new favorites.

Samantha Maxwell is a food writer and editor based in Boston. Follow her on Twitter at @samseating.