Tasting: 5 Core Single Malt Scotch Whiskies from Glengoyne
Photos via Ian Macleod Distillers Drink Features whiskey
A concept like that of the classic scotch whisky regions is the sort of thing that is useful as a rule of thumb–it can teach a newcomer basic information about how single malt scotch whiskies from different areas of the country are likely to differ from each other, but at the end of the day the concept can never be more than a broad guide and a jumping off point to countless exceptions. There will always be a Speyside dram that doesn’t fit the mold, or an Islay malt that refuses to be peaty and briny as they’re always characterized. And then there are distilleries like Glengoyne, which perfectly illustrate the arbitrary nature of the regions by sitting directly on the border between two of them!
See, Glengoyne is traditionally lumped into the Highlands whisky region, but the distillery itself is located directly on the Highland Line, a short distance north of Glasgow. Its aging warehouses, meanwhile, are just across the street … which means they’re technically in the Lowlands. This gives Glengoyne the odd distinction of being the only notable single malt produced in both regions simultaneously.
Stylistically, Glengoyne could arguably be set to fit among the Lowlands product just as much as the Highlands. The distillery proudly notes the absence of peated malt (dried via burning peat) in any of its products, focusing instead on the air-dried quality of its own Golden Promise malt, widely known to traditional U.K. beer brewers. The Ian Macleod Distillers company also notes its distillation speed, which is reportedly slower than any other scotch whisky–those at Glengoyne say that the extra time the spirit spends interacting with the copper stills serves to better remove unwanted sulphur compounds and aid in the formation of the company’s signature esters and congeners. Glengoyne malts are then subjected to a range of different maturations, focusing on both bourbon cask and Spanish ex-sherry casks, in a core lineup of malts that ranges from 10 to 21 years old, with varying degrees of sherry influence.
I haven’t encountered Glengoyne malts particularly often in the U.S., so this tasting of most of the core lineup–plus a special addition of the 25-year-old single malt–will be pretty much entirely new to me.
Glengoyne 10 Year Old
ABV: 40% (80 proof)
The baseline Glengoyne 10 expression is the only one of the core lineup of single malt scotch whiskies that weighs in at 80 proof rather than the slightly more elevated 86 proof, and is clearly designed to be as approachable as possible. This one is 70% composed of malt whiskies aged in ex-bourbon casks, and 30% a blend between European and American oak first-fill sherry casks.
On the nose, Glengoyne 10 features gentle impressions of honey and shortbread, along with freshly sliced red apple. There’s a popcorn butteriness to it as well, and a little green peppercorn spice with traces of herbal tones. On the palate it’s a little bit nutty, hinting at the sherry cask maturation in a fairly subtle way, with sweet toffee and lightly toasted graininess. You really do get a sensation of the pure, dried malt that is being used, alongside green apple and appreciably delicate sherry character. This one seems to want to avoid pushing the envelope too much on the sherry presence in particular, and it really celebrates the malted barley that is the soul of the whisky.
Glengoyne 12 Year Old
ABV: 43% (86 proof)
The 12 year expression of Glengoyne seems like a subtle evolution from the baseline 10 Year–it’s obviously a couple years older, and a little bit higher proof point, and a bit more of the spirit (40%) is matured in the same half-and-half blend of American and European ex-sherry oak. In pretty much every way, it seems like an enhanced version of the flagship malt.
On the nose, what sticks out to me first here is a bit more spice quality than in the 10 Year, giving an impression of spiced toffee candies. I’m also getting more of a coconut note here, along with more prominent touches of dry oak and baking spice. On the palate, the toffee is deeper and more present as well, with flashes of oaky spice, toasted coconut and spice that specifically evokes cardamom. This is a nicely balanced dram that is beginning to show more influence from the wood, while still not feeling like it’s overflowing with sherry character.
Glengoyne 15 Year Old
ABV: 43% (86 proof)
The 15-year expression of Glengoyne falls in the middle of the distillery’s core range, and seems to be more an experiment in working in more first-fill barrels of various kinds, rather than simply increasing the proportion of sherry casks again. This one is composed of 20% first fill bourbon, 25% first-fill sherry and 55% refill ex-bourbon casks.
On the nose, things are certainly trending more richly here, with impressions of malt syrup sweetness, some earthier grass notes and dried fruit, along with clove spice. The dried fruits show up again on the palate, combining with roasted nuts to more clearly evoke the spirit of the sherry casks, while dipping into suggestions of fruitcake, vanilla and subtle roastiness. There’s a bit more prickly heat found here as well, leading to a dram that feels somewhat more substantial in scope.
Glengoyne 21 Year Old
ABV: 43% (86 proof)
The 21-year expression is the oldest in the year-round Glengoyne core lineup, and the first to make the jump to being exclusively matured in 100% sherry casks, “predominately first fill European oak sherry casks,” as the distillery notes. As a result, it will no doubt feature far more of the fortified wine character.
On the nose, what comes to mind here is shortbread that has been deeply browned rather than baked to a blonde coloration, with more of the browned butter tones and tons of boozy fruitcake. At the same time there are also brighter tropical fruit impressions as well, especially evoking pineapple. On the palate, spicy oak really stands out here, the sherry having contributed not just dried fruit and vinous tones but also traces of coffee roast, citrus and some subtle oak bitterness and roasty astringency. There’s no missing the much greater degree of maturity in this dram.
Glengoyne 25 Year Old
ABV: 48% (96 proof)
The final entry in our tasting lineup is the Glengoyne 25 Year Old, which isn’t part of the company’s year-round collection but instead its Fine & Rare Collection. Like the 21 Year Old, it’s matured exclusively in sherry casks, although it notably weighs in at 48% ABV (96 proof), which is a pretty elevated mark for any quarter-century old single malt, likely close to the spirit’s cask strength given that scotch whisky tends to lose proof over the course of aging.
On the nose, the 25 Year Old is notably oak forward and vinous in character, redolent in both red fruit and oak funk. The nose is heavily spiced as well, with earthy clove and licorice. The palate likewise dives into that oak-derived spice, along with powerful dried fruitiness, blackberry jam and assertive coffee roast. The sherry feels like it’s sort of run wild here, delving into complex earthy, almost meaty territory while also flirting with baking spice (allspice) and cooked fruit, especially grape. The elevated proof level and increased wood tannin make for a complex, distinctly less accessible sipper for special occasions.
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident craft beer and spirits geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.