What To Do In Australia’s Underrated Limestone Coast

The incredibly underrated Limestone Coast is one of those sensational gems that doesn’t get the attention it deserves in the Land Down Under. Within this relatively small slice of land located in the southernmost region of the state of South Australia, travelers can find beautiful beaches, a vibrant food and wine scene, craggy caverns, loads of famed Australian wildlife, and many surprises from the eponymous limestone—-from sinkholes boasting lush, verdant gardens to gorgeous bodies of water glistening with a haunting, bright shade of blue.

The Limestone Coast is anchored by the town of Mount Gambier, the second largest in South Australia and less than an hour from the border with neighboring Victoria. Consider a stay at The Barn Accommodation and Steakhouse. With structures constructed from the famed ubiquitous limestone in the early 20th century, the accommodation lies in a quiet patch of country just south of town with soothing suites punctuated by amicable, colorfully leafy gardens. A hearty dinner awaits at the property’s notable steakhouse, where a relaxed atmosphere and walls adorned with memorabilia from noteworthy Australians visiting over the years await as you enjoy your gourmet meal.

Mount Gambier is an adorable little town adorned with cute shops on its many charming streets that are excellent for gifts and souvenirs. Of course, it is easy to miss all that when you’re stunned by the sight of the large body of water in town sporting a seemingly impossible shade of blue. Known simply as the Blue Lake, it occupies the remnants of the actual Mount Gambier, a dormant volcano. The lake peaks with its most radiant hues in the early summer months, and the tint is believed to be caused by mineral interactions with the surrounding limestone. The lake has several kilometers of lovely trails around its perimeter, which are the perfect place to get a closer look if you need convincing that the color is indeed real.

The Blue Lake is not the only body of water of its kind in the area. The lovely Little Blue Lake, located just slightly outside of town, is a pleasant cenote within another limestone cavity that is the ideal hangout spot on a hot summer day. Known for its eccentric collection of items deep beneath the surface, the Little Blue Lake is also a popular place for freediving—-see if you can spot the 1966 Morris 1100 sedan resting on the lakebed if you decide to take a plunge. If you enjoy being underwater and you’re really looking to get your dive on, then head to nearby Kilsby Sinkhole. This cenote, located on a private sheep farm, is filled with more water taking on an improbably blue tint that defies belief until you see it. It isn’t just the color itself that is noteworthy; the depth is such that divers from all over Australia come here to train, and the filtering quality of the enclosing limestone cleans the water to maximum freshness, making it perfectly safe to drink! Get a glimpse of its unbelievable clarity with the snorkeling tour, which provides face masks, snorkels, wetsuits, and flippers. See if you can catch the sight of turtles that sometimes hang out around the perimeter, and then submerge your eyes under the gleaming surface and be dazzled tracing your visibility from the top to the dancing rays of light on the rocky bottom. 

These limestone pockets don’t always house swimmable lakes; sometimes, they are vivid hanging gardens bursting with color! The Umpherston Sinkhole, located only a few blocks from Mount Gambier’s town center, is sure to astonish upon descending into the hole proper, which at the base fully envelops visitors in a 360-degree view of the vegetation that almost looks like a waterfall of luminous jade cascading over the rim. The flora, punctuated with the occasional rainbow of red, violet, and everything in between, is overflowing with life, creating living frames to take rousing pictures of against the contrasting limestone. If you’ve had enough of trips descending into the earth, then try adding some verticality to your day with a hike at Mount Schank. The rim of the sleeping volcano is easily reached after a short trek and offers impeccable sweeping, panoramic views of the region.

All of this exploration is sure to build up a sizable appetite, and if you want to take your dinner to the next level, then Mayura Station, south of town, is a mandatory stop. What looks like an unassuming building out in the country houses one of the most scientific approaches to cuisine that can be found in Australia, producing steaks—-mouthwatering cuts produced from Japanese Wagyu beef cattle—-that are so famous that chefs from all over the globe come here to study the gastronomy techniques on display.

The restaurant is more than just the food. The interior of the old building, around since the mid-19th century, has its tables lined up with a full view of the cooking area. Visitors are treated to the enchanting spectacle of their prepared meal, intermixed with amusing, personable anecdotes and stories from the chefs. There is a real passion to the chemistry at work in the kitchen and everything leading up to the meal that is hard not to get fully engrossed in as you watch. You’ll feel this passion in every single bite to such an extent that it forces presence—-you’ll want to fully slow down and savor every morsel of the multi-course feast, fighting the desire to get taken in by the taste and quickly devour everything in sight.

More memorable times in the Limestone Coast await north in Penola, an attractive village with a surprising amount of history. Check out the weathered homes nestled along quaint Petticoat Lane, where the dwellings, some initially constructed in the mid-19th century, double as a museum to a bygone era through its visible relics resting inside. The houses are intermixed with gardens and swaying flowers, painting a peaceful, colorful scene, and as you enjoy their impact on your sight and smell, keep an eye out for the little signs you’ll see along the street—they are often marked with years denoting when the flora was planted, some of which dates back more than a century. The Alexander Cameron Suites, conveniently within walking distance of everything in town, are an exceptionally comfy place to base your Penola journey. Check in and then walk to nearby Pipers of Penola for dinner, an intimate restaurant whose cozy lighting and delicious meals produced with regional ingredients continue your journey into the local flavor.

You might think these small towns pack a lot to do, and you would be absolutely correct, but arguably the most activity-dense place in the region is still to come. Coonawarra is a blink-and-you-might-miss-it crossroads, scarcely more than a couple of buildings at its center, whose small size conceals a vast wealth of incredible things to do. Make sure you don’t miss any of it by booking the Caves, Cabernet, and Kangaroos tour with Coonawarra Experiences (@coonawarraexperiences on Instagram). You can’t help but get sucked into the enthusiasm exuded by Simon and Kerry, the two guides, whose passion is infectious as they guide you through all of the local treasures sure to give pause to even the most seasoned traveler. Grab some lunch at Ottelia before you embark on your Coonawarra journey proper, as the restaurant, housed within the remnants of an idyllic antiquated school, acts as a prelude to the region’s charms with its locally produced dishes and drinks.

The “caves” portion of the tour begins slightly north at Naracoorte Caves National Park. Only four caves are open to the general public, but these are just a mere hint of the sprawling underground system with entrances numbering close to 30. Notice what you can see in the chaotic patterns enmeshed within the stalactites and stalagmites that resemble Rorschach patterns on the walls, floors, and ceilings, creating an alluring yet eerie atmosphere in the subterranean interior. The Victoria Fossil Cave is a fascinating window into ancient Australian megafauna, their remains telling a story of a creature every bit as unique as what exists on the continent today. Admire the wild details inherent in the skeletal structure of the marsupial lions on display and be awed by the bone piles on the cavern floor, some of which have rested undisturbed for several centuries.

For the “cabernet” portion, you’ll know you’ve entered wine country when the open road is suddenly flanked by walls of vivid, green vines on both sides. It’s an easy detail to miss, but keep an eye on the soil. You’ll notice how some spots have a black tint while other patches of earth take on a dark red color. The latter, known as the “terra rossa,” combined with the underground limestone and aquifers and Coonawarra’s cool climate, create the perfect conditions for cultivating wine. The iconic Wynns Coonawarra Estate, one of the oldest in the region, offers a world of flavors beyond its cellar door. Guide yourself through the story of the land and its effect on production through the intriguing museum, or head downstairs and have a thrilling tasting experience against the backdrop of massive casks filled with aging wine. The scientific nature of the tasting is emphasized in the provided beakers and glassware, where visitors are encouraged to mix and match and record their thoughts during experimentation. More drinking fun awaits at the delightful Parker Wine Estate nearby. Open since 1985, in addition to more delectable terra rossa concoctions, the Parker Estate also makes gins and beers best consumed while marveling at the peaceful green scenery surrounding the blissful property, which often doubles as a popular wedding venue.

The iconic kangaroo, needing no introduction and found everywhere around Australia, is unfortunately often the victim of car accidents, leaving behind poor orphaned joeys (aka baby kangaroos). The tour will make a stop at the kangaroo sanctuary of Trudy Taylor, where the little ones are given a new lease on life. Watch your heart get stolen instantly by the adorable sight of the baby critters, either hopping around looking for a treat or lazing with a smirk on their face inside one of the handmade pouches on the property. South Australia has laws mandating raising kangaroos to adult age if they are rescued—when the joeys are large enough, they join the group of adolescents and grown-ups found in the nearby pen. Occasionally, the bigger roos will come bounding up seeking pets from visitors, where their relative size and height compared to the joeys are sure to surprise with their spirited leaps and quick speed.

Before you leave Coonawarra, stopping at the renowned Coonawarra Siding is a must. The remnants of a late 19th-century local railway line that now exists alongside a breezy bike trail, the landmark doubles as an iconic symbol of the town and a spectacular photo opportunity. The prominent Coonawarra sign and raised train platform juxtaposed against the endless emerald hues of the vineyards and stunning Australian sky make for the perfect scene to commemorate your unforgettable time in the area. Leave your mark by also interacting with the geocache nestled within the little hut on the platform, taking something with you and leaving something behind for the next traveler.

Finally, if you want to experience the “coast” part of the Limestone Coast, look no further than the vibrant beach town of Robe due west. Enjoy a revitalizing day on the many sandy shores, visit a cellar door and imbibe more drinks at a local winery, or stop by the unique lighthouse, whose obelisk-like appearance makes for fantastic pictures against the backdrop of the azure waves of the Southern Ocean.

John Sizemore is a travel writer, photographer, yoga teacher, and visual entertainment developer based out of Austin, Texas. Follow him on Instagram at @sizemoves. In his downtime, John likes to learn foreign languages and get immersed in other worlds, particularly those of music, film, games, and books in addition to exploring the world.