What To Do In Australia’s Underrated Limestone Coast
All photos by John Sizemore
The incredibly underrated Limestone Coast is one of those sensational gems that doesn’t get the attention it deserves in the Land Down Under. Within this relatively small slice of land located in the southernmost region of the state of South Australia, travelers can find beautiful beaches, a vibrant food and wine scene, craggy caverns, loads of famed Australian wildlife, and many surprises from the eponymous limestone—-from sinkholes boasting lush, verdant gardens to gorgeous bodies of water glistening with a haunting, bright shade of blue.
The Limestone Coast is anchored by the town of Mount Gambier, the second largest in South Australia and less than an hour from the border with neighboring Victoria. Consider a stay at The Barn Accommodation and Steakhouse. With structures constructed from the famed ubiquitous limestone in the early 20th century, the accommodation lies in a quiet patch of country just south of town with soothing suites punctuated by amicable, colorfully leafy gardens. A hearty dinner awaits at the property’s notable steakhouse, where a relaxed atmosphere and walls adorned with memorabilia from noteworthy Australians visiting over the years await as you enjoy your gourmet meal.
Mount Gambier is an adorable little town adorned with cute shops on its many charming streets that are excellent for gifts and souvenirs. Of course, it is easy to miss all that when you’re stunned by the sight of the large body of water in town sporting a seemingly impossible shade of blue. Known simply as the Blue Lake, it occupies the remnants of the actual Mount Gambier, a dormant volcano. The lake peaks with its most radiant hues in the early summer months, and the tint is believed to be caused by mineral interactions with the surrounding limestone. The lake has several kilometers of lovely trails around its perimeter, which are the perfect place to get a closer look if you need convincing that the color is indeed real.
The Blue Lake is not the only body of water of its kind in the area. The lovely Little Blue Lake, located just slightly outside of town, is a pleasant cenote within another limestone cavity that is the ideal hangout spot on a hot summer day. Known for its eccentric collection of items deep beneath the surface, the Little Blue Lake is also a popular place for freediving—-see if you can spot the 1966 Morris 1100 sedan resting on the lakebed if you decide to take a plunge. If you enjoy being underwater and you’re really looking to get your dive on, then head to nearby Kilsby Sinkhole. This cenote, located on a private sheep farm, is filled with more water taking on an improbably blue tint that defies belief until you see it. It isn’t just the color itself that is noteworthy; the depth is such that divers from all over Australia come here to train, and the filtering quality of the enclosing limestone cleans the water to maximum freshness, making it perfectly safe to drink! Get a glimpse of its unbelievable clarity with the snorkeling tour, which provides face masks, snorkels, wetsuits, and flippers. See if you can catch the sight of turtles that sometimes hang out around the perimeter, and then submerge your eyes under the gleaming surface and be dazzled tracing your visibility from the top to the dancing rays of light on the rocky bottom.
These limestone pockets don’t always house swimmable lakes; sometimes, they are vivid hanging gardens bursting with color! The Umpherston Sinkhole, located only a few blocks from Mount Gambier’s town center, is sure to astonish upon descending into the hole proper, which at the base fully envelops visitors in a 360-degree view of the vegetation that almost looks like a waterfall of luminous jade cascading over the rim. The flora, punctuated with the occasional rainbow of red, violet, and everything in between, is overflowing with life, creating living frames to take rousing pictures of against the contrasting limestone. If you’ve had enough of trips descending into the earth, then try adding some verticality to your day with a hike at Mount Schank. The rim of the sleeping volcano is easily reached after a short trek and offers impeccable sweeping, panoramic views of the region.
All of this exploration is sure to build up a sizable appetite, and if you want to take your dinner to the next level, then Mayura Station, south of town, is a mandatory stop. What looks like an unassuming building out in the country houses one of the most scientific approaches to cuisine that can be found in Australia, producing steaks—-mouthwatering cuts produced from Japanese Wagyu beef cattle—-that are so famous that chefs from all over the globe come here to study the gastronomy techniques on display.
The restaurant is more than just the food. The interior of the old building, around since the mid-19th century, has its tables lined up with a full view of the cooking area. Visitors are treated to the enchanting spectacle of their prepared meal, intermixed with amusing, personable anecdotes and stories from the chefs. There is a real passion to the chemistry at work in the kitchen and everything leading up to the meal that is hard not to get fully engrossed in as you watch. You’ll feel this passion in every single bite to such an extent that it forces presence—-you’ll want to fully slow down and savor every morsel of the multi-course feast, fighting the desire to get taken in by the taste and quickly devour everything in sight.
More memorable times in the Limestone Coast await north in Penola, an attractive village with a surprising amount of history. Check out the weathered homes nestled along quaint Petticoat Lane, where the dwellings, some initially constructed in the mid-19th century, double as a museum to a bygone era through its visible relics resting inside. The houses are intermixed with gardens and swaying flowers, painting a peaceful, colorful scene, and as you enjoy their impact on your sight and smell, keep an eye out for the little signs you’ll see along the street—they are often marked with years denoting when the flora was planted, some of which dates back more than a century. The Alexander Cameron Suites, conveniently within walking distance of everything in town, are an exceptionally comfy place to base your Penola journey. Check in and then walk to nearby Pipers of Penola for dinner, an intimate restaurant whose cozy lighting and delicious meals produced with regional ingredients continue your journey into the local flavor.