Estonia’s population falls well below the population of the city of Philadelphia. So, on an early morning walk through Tallinn, the country’s capital, curtained by a gray mist off the Baltic Sea, the quiet feels entirely unsurprising.
But it doesn’t take long to dissolve. As the day starts, the cobblestone streets of Tallinn’s old city slowly fill with tourists, locals, and an outpouring of delicious food and medieval history. What’s more, the prices are extremely low for a European capital city; a full breakfast will often cost no more than five euros, and a decent beer about three.
Though Tallinn’s history reeks of invading powers like Russia, Germany and Sweden, today it thrives under its own banner. A refreshed contemporary art scene, lively bars and expansive parks make Tallinn a tourist-friendly hidden treasure.
Visit in late May or June, when sunlight lasts until about midnight, or around Christmas-time when a lively Christmas market takes over the old city. Don’t forget to the items on this check off this list as you go.
1. Old City
Dubbed a UNESCO World Heritage site, Tallinn’s medieval old city feels like an ancient European playground, complete with cobblestone streets, quiet shops, ornate churches and ancient landmarks. Look for famed St. Catherine’s Passage, recognizable by the terracotta-tiled archways, and Saiakang Passage off Raekoja Plats, or Town Hall Square. A free walking tour of the old city sets off every day at noon from the tourist information spot (Niguliste 2).
2. Toompea Hill
When the old city meets a steep uphill climb, you have reached Toompea Hill, the very heart of old Tallinn. Dating back to the early 13th century, this limestone mound offers sprawling vistas of the old city stretching out to the Baltic Sea. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral stands as a beacon of old Tsarist Russia’s control over Estonia, but Toompea Castle, where the Estonian government now holds court, shows the heart of Estonia and its people. On your way down the hill, pop in a record shop and listen to some Estonian music. Two have settled in at the base of Toompea: Contemporary Biit Me Record Store and Raamatukoi Grammofon, which also offers Soviet memorabilia.
3. The Culture Kilometer
Filmmaker Andrei Tarkovsky recognized the dark beauty of the industrial region of Tallinn in his film Stalker. Now, young creatives have transformed these old Soviet factories, military grounds and ship graveyards into art spaces along the Baltic Sea, creating the Culture Kilometer. It begins just outside of the old city gates and stretches for 2.2km, or about one mile. The pathway includes EKKM, the Estonian contemporary art museum with free admission, contemporary art and design shops like the Estonian Design House, and trendy new restaurants; cafes; and bars. Take a break on the way at Kultuurikatel, an experimental community for food and design connected by a spacious yard with Ping-Pong tables and a basketball hoop.
4. Paterei Prison
