Optimists will tell you that Spring is just around the corner in what I call New England+—the traditional six New England states, plus New York. But realists (and people who actually live there) will tell you: it’s ages away. And yet even for those who feel ambivalent about the white stuff, the best time to visit is during winter’s last wild howl.
Yes, the fall is beautiful in New England, but the off-season has its perks. There are fewer fellow tourists, which means reservations at restaurants are easy to come by, and a range of out-of-the-box outdoor and indoor activities have been ginned up by savvy innkeepers to attract your business.
There are a range of inns across New England, but we threw in a few from New York too—because while the Empire State north of Yonkers is New England in spirit, Dutch colonialists circa mid-1600s and history nerds will tell you that the term New England refers to the group of states—Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island—first settled by the Dutch.
New England writ large remained a Dutch colony until the Brits came and stole their candy. (Which, of course, was stolen in the first place from Indigenous Americans). It took several additional decades of bloodshed and contretemps before the British snagged New Netherlands, which they re-christened New York.
End of history lesson, onto the quest for the perfect winter inn!
Reconnect Romantically: The Saratoga Arms Hotel in New York
The Saratoga Arms Hotel is located in the heart of Saratoga Springs, N.Y., a town that was founded and enriched by Gilded Age barons like Cornelius Vanderbilt. The restored 1870 Second Empire inn offers incredibly personal and personable service: from a stocked pantry of free gourmet snacks and drinks, to historical ephemera from President Ulysses S. Grant’s days in the White House (the late founder Noel Smith was a descendent), a decadent breakfast, and grand staircases, fireplaces and claw foot tubs in rooms, the Inn would be a draw on its own for those in search of a little spark in their relationship.
In need of a full reset? Consider taking part in a Reconnection Retreat. For an additional $1,699, you will get a personalized retreat designed to ripen your capacity for pleasure and deepen your connection. Caroline Russell Smith, the Arms’ in-house sex and relationship therapist, has training in tantra, mindfulness, trauma and couples therapy. The package includes a virtual intention-setting session, an in-person reconnection session with Caroline, a bottle of welcome Champagne, an intimacy kit, a $200 credit for the nearby Complexions Spa, gourmet lunches and a special gift to take home. It’s available on select weekends in February and March only, so book ahead.
General manager Rachel Boggan explains that the family-run, historic hotel sets out to provide truly personalized experiences for everyone.
“A lot of people pulled back on amenities and high-touch service during COVID, but we doubled down,” Boggan says. “We send you a survey to find out what size bathrobe you want, we find out if you need any snacks or drinks ready for you when you arrive and we always bring guests to their room personally. And we are always happy to help guests with reservations or advice on what to do and see.”
A Gilded Experience: Wheatleigh Hotel in Massachusetts
If you’ve ever wanted to live inside of an Edith Wharton novel, set your GPS for Lenox, Mass., in the Berkshires. The Wheatleigh Hotel is an Italianate palazzo, completed in 1893; originally a home, now it serves as one of the smallest Leading Hotels of the World. Enter through an iron gate, past a dramatic fountain, and into a different century.
The grand entrance is full-on Palazzo vibes, with a fireplace to match, Tiffany and Co. stained-glass windows, a sumptuous game room, and crown moldings that would make Prince Charles blush. Guests craving a taste of the suite life can stroll up the grand staircase to luxuriate in one of 19 guest rooms featuring soaring ceilings, appointed with a curated array of antique furniture and fine art, and a roomy balcony, but all of the trappings of a contemporary luxe life: large soaking tubs, state-of-the-art showers, Roku-enabled TV, a Bose sound system. The grounds—with tennis courts, a heated outdoor pool, expansive patio with a fire pit, miles of wooded trails and plush lawns to wander, a moss-covered sculpture garden—complete the picture.
But you’re here for a truly Gilded Age experience, courtesy of the James Beard award-winning chef, RJ Cooper.
The former Iron Chef has created a culinary safari at Sage & Sparrow through seasonal textures and tastes. The menu rotates frequently, and offers between 10 and 14 courses in a private space with just eight tables and views of the rolling meadows and curated lawns and courtyards, carved out from the land in the 19th century by Frederick Law Olmstead of Central Park fame.
The seasonally inspired menu, created to pay homage to New England’s farmers, foragers and fisherman, is paired with wines from a well-stocked cellar. At a recent dinner, I experienced unexpected pairings that took me to places my palate had never been, but now would love to explore again—Cipollini gelato, with Ossetra caviar-caramel; wild crones and chanterelle in a sauce of duck collagen; a whipped potato in a white chocolate dressing topped with white sturgeon caviar; Hokkaido scallops in a pool of buttermilk with edible flowers and dill.
Immersive Family Fun: Stowe Topnotch in Vermont
Not a skiing family? There is still plenty to do at Topnotch, even if you don’t ski. And if you do, the 120-acre wooded glade in the foothills of Mount Mansfield will appeal even more.
The resort feels equal parts charming ski lodge, luxurious retreat and activity-packed play center for the knee-high members of your crew. There are 68 guestrooms and suites, and 16 two-to-three-bedroom resort homes ideal for larger families and groups.
“Topnotch Resort has something for everyone,” says Matthew Wheeler, Topnotch’s area general manager.. “You can get a tennis or pickleball lesson at the Tennis Academy, take a horseback or carriage ride courtesy of The Equestrian Center, enjoy a facial or massage at the Topnotch Spa, go swimming or relax in the indoor and outdoor pools and Jacuzzis, take a nature walk along the Stowe Recreation Path, or chill at the outdoor fire pit with a specialty cocktail or s’mores kit. Mountain Ops Outdoor Gear, an on-property outfitter, can arrange and outfit for any activity year-round, from bike riding and rock climbing to snowshoeing and skiing.”
And if that doesn’t keep you busy enough, you’re a stone’s throw from Instagram-ready Stowe village, brimming with boutiques and family friendly experiences. (Ben and Jerry’s Factory, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, the Vermont Teddy Bear Factory and Rock of Ages Granite Quarries are must-hits).
Quintessential New England Escape: Lockwood Hotel in Maine
If you have your heart set on a quintessential New England experience, set your sights on the Lockwood Hotel in picturesque Waterville, Maine.
The inland college town has become a hub for art and culture, and the newly opened sleek 53-room Lockwood Hotel offers the first boutique hotel basecamp for curious visitors.
Art lovers will appreciate the close proximity to the Colby College Museum of Art teaching museum and the art center Greene Block + Studios, which offers a rotating series of programming, exhibits and events. Nature lovers can set off to the nearby Quarry Road Recreation Area, with miles of hiking trails and cross-country skiing, or the historic Lockwood Mills Riverwalk at the Head of Falls.
“Lockwood Hotel is a basecamp for Maine exploration, giving travelers a whole new perspective on the state, and a true central Maine experience.” says David Beaudoin, Lockwood Hotel’s general manager. “Waterville is a haven for art enthusiasts who can enjoy renowned museums like Colby College Museum of Art, and immersive art and culture experiences at the new Schupf Art Center. just down the street from our hotel. It is also a magical place for adventures all year-round, from skiing—we are just a little over an hour from Sugarloaf ski area—to enjoying hiking nearby, and fly fishing on the Kennebec River.”
Hip History Buffs: Hotel Kinsley in New York
Located in Kingston, N.Y., Hotel Kinsley is the lovechild of a kewl Brooklyn 20-something art nerd who ferments their own kimchi and a septuagenarian aesthete. The 42-room hotel, restaurant and cocktail lounge is spread across four historic buildings, each of which has its own unique flavor and dash of bohemian elegance.
At a recent stay at 24 John Street, a European style cottage that predates the Revolutionary War, I soaked in the historic-chic ambiance, appreciating the thoughtful original art pieces, Frette linens, claw-footed soaking tub and fireplace. Design geeks will dig the wide plank white flooring peppered with reclaimed spruce, wood and tile fireplaces, lime-washed walls, Modern Revival Turkish rugs and brass floor lamps with shades painted by Happy Menocal, the visionary behind the mural in the restaurant.
The concept was curated by Charlie and Aviva Blaichman, in partnership with Taavo Somer of Freemans fame. Zak Pelaccio was the consulting chef at opening. Pelaccio, who has been credited by Esquire as the force behind “the new wave of cooking in the Hudson Valley,” has built out a restaurant that echoes the hotel’s paradigm in spirit, imprinted with his personal culinary vision on Kinsley.
The menu is upscale, seasonal, locally sourced comfort. Start with crunchy, savory focaccia, redolent of fresh-pressed olive oil, delightfully salt-licked and chewy. Don’t bypass the gorgeous grass-fed cheeseburgers, crisped and judiciously salted shoestring fries with tender interiors, rich salmon floated on a bed of buttery kale and turnips. The cocktails are perfectly balanced, large and strong—you won’t need a second.
When you’re ready to wander, New York State’s first capital (until 1777, when British forces burned much of it down) beckons. Today, there are three historic districts to explore, including the Stockade, Midtown Neighborhood Broadway Corridor and Roundout-West Strand Historic District. Each one is peppered with loud, outre bars, cafés, art shops, bookstores and boutiques.
Culture Vultures: Hit the Newbury Boston in Massachusetts
If you need a little more than gorgeous vistas to rev your engine, head to Boston, the defining New England city. The Newbury Boston is located in Back Bay, the city’s most popular shopping and dining destination, adjacent to the meticulously designed 24-acre Public Garden.
Opened in 1927 as one of the first Ritz Carlton hotels in the United States, it offers 286 luxury rooms, signature dining experiences and 16,000 square feet of event and art spaces.
“The contemporary art collection at The Newbury Boston features photography, mixed media, sculpture, oil painting and more,” said Carlos Bueno, Managing Director of The Newbury Boston. “The curators put together a collection that features the work of local and regional artists, some of which was commissioned especially for our spaces, as well as a collection of Yousuf Karsh portraits. The thoughtfully selected collection complements the architecture and design elements of the hotel while infusing a layer of modernity to our historic spaces.”
Culture vultures will appreciate the hotel’s Artful Escape Package, which includes tickets to the Museum of Fine Arts. Plus, the Institute of Contemporary Art, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, and the JFK Library & Museum are just a stroll away.
After a long day of wandering galleries, cozy up with a Fireplace Suite Experience, complete with your own wood-burning, complete with the services of a Fireplace Butler. Choose from a curated menu of wood types, sweet and savory snacks and seasonal cocktails.
Other Top Picks in New England+
Whale Aficionados: The Whaler’s Inn in Connecticut
Looking for a whale of a time? Hit up the 125-year-old Whaler’s Inn in Mystic, Conn., comprised of five buildings from different historical eras, each of which has its history and personality. The Inn is close to a range of whale-centric activities, from the Seaport Museum, the Mystic Aquarium, Olde Mistick Village and cruising or sailing adventures with Argia Mystic.
Country Chic: Grace Mayflower Inn and Spa
Everything the inimitable Relais & Châteaux touches turns to gold, and the Grace Mayflower Inn in Washington, Conn., is no exception. Set in the horsey, rolling hills of Litchfield County, it offers indoor and outdoor pools, gorgeous gardens, a destination spa, and a diverse range of ultra-luxe accommodations in four buildings, often outfitted with balconies, fireplaces and sitting areas. When you aren’t luxuriating in the culinary and wellness offerings, go forth and gawk at Washington’s stunning farmland, quiet country lanes, historical colonial buildings and world-class antique shops.
Hands-Off Parenting: Mountain View Grand Resort & Spa in New Hampshire
If you want a family vacation without any of the heavy lifting generally associated with family fun, Mountain View in Whitefield, N.H., may be the escape you’re in need of. The charming resort offers family football, cross-country skiing, ice skating, indoor and outdoor pools, a movie theater, dog sledding and a kid’s mountaineering club. Aaaaah.
