When most cocktail drinkers–or even rum geeks, for that matter–hear the name Goslings, it’s only natural to think of the company’s flagship Black Seal Rum, one of the most persistent and recognizable commercial rums on the shelf, and an indispensable part of their trademarked Dark ‘n Stormy mixed drink. That bottle is a symbol of the entry level rum world, and of its home in Bermuda, but the full Goslings portfolio goes deeper than simply that one cocktail staple. The Pernod Ricard-owned company produces a variety of rums, although it doesn’t distill in Bermuda itself. And perhaps the crown jewel of the collection is the Goslings Family Reserve Old Rum series.
Family Reserve Old Rum has been produced in various expressions since 2003, and was originally created exclusively for members of the Gosling family and bottled once annually. Typically this is a traditional blended rum, sourced from both column and pot still selections, aged in Bermuda in ex-bourbon barrels. The latest expression, however, heads in a decidedly different direction: Family Reserve Old Rum Rye Barrel Finish is, as the name would imply, finished with at least three years in U.S. rye whiskey barrels instead. Specifically, it blends rye barrels filled in 2018, 2019 and 2020. The rums in the makeup are unknown, although Goslings is speculated to be primarily column still distillate, possibly from Trinidad, mixed with pot still juice from elsewhere. This one is bottled at the basic 40% ABV (80 proof), with an MSRP of roughly $80, a bit on the high side for something without a concrete age statement or elevated proof, but that’s the price you pay for special glass bottles and unusual cask finishes these days.
Regardless, I’m quite curious of how the rye barrels will play in a blend of classic Caribbean rums. So with that said, let’s get to tasting.
On the nose, you’re definitely getting aged column still rum characteristics here right off the bat, with prominent notes of brown sugar and vanilla extract, but they’re joined by an extremely floral character and a citrus that suggests bergamot. Spice is also prominent, but in a more unique context: It’s evocative of both pink peppercorn and especially something like cardamom, with flashes of fresh leather. All in all, it’s a pretty unusual, interesting nose.
On the palate, the first surprise here is that this is somewhat drier than I would have expected, with a level of residual sweetness that is only mild to maybe moderate. I’m getting vanilla extract/cream along with pronounced floral tones and spicy rye, with pepper and more of that cardamom. Molasses cookie with ginger suggests the relatively neutral column rum distillate, with spice taking over again on the back end with trailing pepper and peppercorn fruitiness.
The unusual dimension to the spiciness here does make the bottle stand out, though I expect it could probably use more proof in order to feel more vivacious than the 40% ABV we’re getting here. All in all, though, the rye barrels are delivering a unique experience unlike what you’re typically going to run into in a standard bottle of moderately aged column still rum from the Caribbean. If the floral/spice dimension–and relative dryness–is intriguing to you, then this will be one to seek out.
Distillery: Goslings Rum
Region: Bermuda
Style: Blended Caribbean rum
ABV: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $80 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.