The Karpaz peninsula of sunny North Cyprus is one of those unspoiled corners of the world—at least for now. Wild donkeys roam through old olive groves and ancient ruins, chameleons disappear below the boughs of candy-orange mandarin trees and blossoming almond trees, nameless beaches stretch empty and secluded, waiting with the well-tempered waters of Mediterranean Sea.
While this part of the island is not yet an overdeveloped resort complex like most of Greek-controlled south Cyprus, steady progress (nudged by government incentives) is being made to convert the serene peninsula into a busy tourist attraction. All signs point to now as the time to visit north Cyprus and its crown jewel, the Karpaz peninsula, to enjoy the last moments of isolated greenery and fantastic wildlife before the bulldozers arrive.
This is a true paradise for nature lovers and hikers, but if you explore by car, don’t forget to drive on the left side of the road—Cyprus is a former British colony. There are many hidden beaches, crumbling ruins and cinematic views that you will stumble upon as you wander through Karpaz, but here are some highlights to get you started:
1. Dipkarpaz
Within the isolated tip of the Karpaz peninsula, the village of Dipkarpaz stands as the last point of civilization before the island ends. Dipkarpaz is a farming village of about 2,000 people—mostly Turkish Cypriots, with a mix of immigrated Turks and a community of Greek Cypriots who decided to stay after the border was created in the aftermath of the Cyprus war of 1974. Boxy concrete homes squat along narrow, paved roads and rough dirt paths that divide sprawling pieces of cultivated land and wildflower-filled meadows (there are said to be over 3,000 species of wildflowers in Karpaz) in the village, where chickens, cats and goats wander about.
2. Ayios Philon
Just a few minutes drive out of Dipkarpaz down to the shore of the north coast brings you to the ruins of the Ayios Philon, a 12th century church that sits over the remains of a fifth century basilica; the highlight is the marble floor mosaic. You can ponder the ruins (one of many in Karpaz) over a charcoal-grilled fish lunch at the restaurant of the nearby Oasis Hotel.
Adjacent to nothing but the crumbling church and a few humble palm trees, the terraced
dining area is perched near the edge of a cliff offering a stunning sea view, while the hotel rooms are located down on the beach, where warm waves almost come up to your doorstep.
3. Karpaz National Park Wild Donkey Protection Area
Once you’ve explored Karpaz, you’ll realize that wild donkeys are kind of like the mascot for the region. As you pull into the entrance of Karpaz National Park Wild Donkey Protection Area, a few “wild” but actually very tame donkeys that approach with curious, please-feed-me eyes will warmly welcome you. You can continue by car or foot down the bumpy dirt road to the isolated tip of Karpaz from where you can gaze out into the mysterious distance from the rocky, grass-covered cliffs tilting over hypnotic turquoise waters. Before you reach the very end, be sure to make a stop at the Greek Orthodox monastery known as Apostolos Andreas. After stepping inside the solemn, candle-lit space of the still functioning monastery church (where you’ll hopefully spot a black-robed priest), you can stroll by a long row of tables positioned opposite the church where locals are selling some pretty great souvenirs, like wooden coasters with a painted map of north Cyprus. Whether or not you buy anything, keep walking down past the tables to explore the rest of the zigzagging monastery structure that sits right by the water.
