Tour Guide: Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
A government town gets groovy
Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania (surprise, it’s not Philly), has long held a reputation for being a pretty dull place; the type of city where everyone leaves their government job at 5 p.m., and promptly goes to sleep. And for a long time, this was hard to dispute; musical performances were few and far between and finding a good cup of coffee was a daunting task. There may have been more first date spots available at Castle Black.
But over the past few years, an influx of artists, creators and doers have breathed new life into the city. The beautiful Midtown and Uptown neighborhoods, on the banks of the slow-flowing Susquehanna River, remain more affordable than a parking spot in many major cities, and Portland’s sell of being a retirement community for young people seems far more applicable here.
We’ve put together a beginner’s guide to the best of what the city has to offer, whether you’re coming for an afternoon or to stay; a mix of the OG spots that have stood the test of time and exciting additions that show just how much the city has changed.
1. Little Amps Coffee Roasters
Little Amps began at a location on Green Street in Uptown, but has expanded along with the city’s arts scene, quickly adding two more locations. Founded by Central Pennsylvania native Aaron Carlson, Little Amps offers small-batch coffee roasted locally and terrific pastries (disclaimer: my mom makes some of them). The Cold Jar—espresso shaken with ice and brown sugar, topped with milk and served in a Mason jar—is a go-to favorite for summer days.
Little Amps is a place to enjoy music just as much as coffee. The original Uptown store in particular offers a great selection of vinyl, both lining the walls and in bins near the register. Local label Tree Cover, which has been quietly putting out some of the best indie rock in town, from groups like the AfroBeat-indebted Flower Garden to the snarky, seething punk of Concrete Beach, sells tapes at the store. Both the uptown and downtown shops host regular performances by local acts and touring musicians alike, a great place to start your weekend and make new friends.
2. The Millworks
The Millworks opened recently in Midtown in, you guessed, an enormous old mill. Covering 24,000 square feet, the bar and restaurant were designed with a mix of old wood found in the building and new materials to create a vibe that is cozy as much as it is chic. Proud to rep their home turf, the bar features a rotating cast of 20 local beers and ciders, including brews from Tröegs and the Appalachian Brewing Company. Bonus: in warm weather you can sip your drink in the outdoor beer garden.
Upstairs, Millworks also rents (at a rate that would make any Brooklynite weep) space to over 30 artists who regularly open their studios for public tours and sell their crafts in a little shop adjacent to the Millworks’ main entrance, providing good presents to bring back to your friends/fellow future Harrisburgers.
3. Broad Street Market
The oldest continuously operating farmers market in the United States, Broad Street Market is the point of intersection between old-school Harrisburg and the new kids on the block. The 40 vendors who set up Thursday-Sunday in the indoor stone building include fresh produce by vendors like Peach Ridge and prepared foods like Mel’s Rock N’ BBQ and Evanilla’s Gourmet Doughnuts.
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