As the boutique rum blenders/bottlers at Holmes Cay have continued to hone their craft in recent years, they’ve explored a number of avenues toward broadening the product lineup. This has included more affordable blended expressions and single origin rums from exotic locales, but at its heart the company was always built around its original focus of single cask rums. That series has continued on, and continues to produce exceptional bottles on a regular basis, the latest being Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru, arguably one of their most interesting and unusual expressions to date. Although really, we expect nothing less from the brand at this point.
This is a single cask–which means this release is about as limited as they get by definition–originally distilled by Foursquare in Barbados and bottled by Holmes Cay. It’s a blend of copper pot still rum and Coffey column still rum from 100% molasses, which spent 8 years tropically aging in Barbados in ex-bourbon casks, and then another 4 years in the UK in ex-bourbon casks. It then spent a final 2 years in New York in a very special finishing cask: Premier Cru (First Growth) Bordeaux wine casks from France. The final result is non-chill filtered and bottled at a cask strength of 55% ABV (110 proof).
That is a long finishing period, in a particularly difficult style of barrel to lay one’s hands on. Unsurprisingly, it bears a high MSRP of $170, in line with other single cask offerings from Holmes Cay.
I was particularly interested to taste this one, given a relative lack of familiarity with rum finished in red wine casks in specific. We certainly encounter no shortage of rum that has come into contact with various styles of fortified wine such as sherry, port and madeira, but I’m curious to see how this particular cask will impact an already well-aged Bajan rum. So with that said, let’s get to tasting.
On the nose, the Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru displays a complex spice and wood profile, with underlying savory and earthy tones. There’s a butterscotch here that is a little unusual at first, opening into earth/soil and red fruit. I’m getting a suggestion of currant, along with big and vivacious spice notes, with heavy cinnamon and allspice. The French oak has really layered the nose with spice.
On the palate, that spice is there once again–a whole plethora of baking spices, particularly allspice, but also a fruity pepperiness and some toasted oak. At the same time, there’s dark stone fruit (plum) and even darker jammy tones, along with nutty cocoa and chocolate/pecan bar. This may sound like a rather desserty dram, but in reality it actually runs toward dry as each sip progresses, with oak reasserting itself and moderate drying tannin taking on a bigger dimension. Ephemeral earthy tones make it memorable but somewhat difficult to pin down. It feels like there’s even more to be unearthed here.
All in all, this is one of the more interesting and mentally engaging rums I’ve sampled recently. The wine casks have sent this rum on a compelling journey, resulting in a final product that is decidedly unique.
Distillery: Holmes Cay (Foursquare)
Region: Barbados
Style: Single cask rum
ABV: 55% (110 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $170 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.