The Best (Unexpected) Wines to Pair with Thanksgiving Dinner
Photo by Scott Warman/Unsplash
Forget how many pounds of turkey the average American eats on Thanksgiving. (Three pounds, if you must know). Do you know how many wineries there are across the country and how few of them you’re supporting?
There are an incredible 17,212, according to the Alcohol Tax and Trade Bureau’s last count this year, and even for people like me who make a living writing about wine, the vast majority of the American wine I consume hails from California, Washington and Oregon.
What about New Mexico, Missouri and Texas and all of the other woefully overlooked states producing wine? Thanksgiving is already unabashedly problematic—many people see it as a celebration of genocide, with many American Indians observing a day of mourning instead of celebration—and that’s before we get around to considering the travel hassles, tense partisanship and the inevitable dietary restrictions many guests will bring to your table.
In a bid for an at least nominal embrace of diversity and patriotism on this most carb-fueled and gravy-drizzled of national days, let’s all commit to serving a broad array of Thanksgiving wines that will pair perfectly with everything from luscious thigh meat to pumpkin pie, and also support some of the independent, talented winemakers making life just a little more delicious for everyone in unexpected places.
New York Riesling + Pear Tart
New York’s wine regions, especially the Finger Lakes, have been rising in estimation in recent years, so chances are, you’ve tried at least one good wine from New York. If you haven’t had an opportunity to yet, now’s the chance.
Flying winemaker Paul Hobbs—who has wineries in California, Argentina, France, Armenia and Spain—touched down in the Finger Lakes in 2013 to revive his family’s legacy of growing grapes there.
Hillick & Hobbs’ 2020 Estate Dry Riesling is “one of the greatest universal food wines on the market, a rich palate and zippy acidity creates ample food pairing opportunities,” winemaker Lynne Fahy says, explaining that it “could go with everything from the turkey, with its crispy golden skin and savory gravy, to that bready stuffing laced with celery. I also think if a pear tart is on the menu, the golden nature of the wine could compliment the buttery/flakey crust, while the acid would balance out the sweetness of the dessert.”
$35, available here.
Missouri Norton + Mushrooms
Augusta, Missouri, earned AVA status in 1980—before Napa! Augusta is the first AVA in the country, with a wine history dating back to the 1800s when the state grew more wine than California and New York combined. But the region was decimated by Prohibition and only recently began to completely recover.
“Thanksgiving, a quintessential American holiday, beckons for a wine with a history as rich and storied as the very traditions we hold dear,” notes Mary Collineau, co-founder of Augusta’s Vinalia winery. “Norton proudly wears the banner of American viticulture. Crafted from a hybrid grape varietal born of an American vine species, it embodies the essence of our nation’s winemaking heritage. As you gather around your Thanksgiving table this year, make a departure from the usual California Zinfandel and serve this Norton instead. Its playful aromas of spiced raspberries and black cherries are as festive as the holiday itself, setting the tone for a truly special celebration.”
Collineau suggests pairing it with anything and everything mushroom-based, from stuffing to gravy to stuffed mushrooms. $28, buy it here.
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