As I’ve often observed when reviewing expressions of Heaven Hill’s Old Fitzgerald Bottled in Bond Bourbon in the past, the ever-moving age statements of this series are one of its most intriguing quirks. For a single series to contain expressions that range from merely 8 years old, to 19 years or more, while being marketed as the “same bourbon,” is a frankly crazy notion. And yet, Old Fitzgerald also has an odd way of not being particularly defined by each batch’s age statements, because the whiskey inside each of the beautiful decanter bottles doesn’t always seem to directly reflect those age statements the way one might expect it to. There are younger batches of Old Fitz that drink significantly older than they actually are, and vice versa, meaning you’re never truly certain of what you’re going to get, other than the reliable 50% ABV (100 proof), and Heaven Hill’s wheated bourbon mash bill.
The latest expression in the series, Old Fitzgerald Fall 2023, is an 8-year-old bourbon that falls on the youngest side of the series’ previous age statements. There’s only been one other 8-year-old batch, which arrived in the spring of 2021, but despite the fact that it was less mature, it was honestly an above-average batch of Old Fitz in my estimation. In a sign of the times, though, you can clearly see an illustration of how prices have continued their inexorable advance here: The Spring 2021 bottling had an MSRP of $85, while this Fall 2023 one is now $110, for a roughly $25 increase in just over two years, at the same age statement. The days of the $100 barrier being a sign of “ultra luxury” bourbon now feels like quite a remnant of the past, doesn’t it?
Regardless, let’s get to tasting the latest expression in this well-liked series of wheated bourbons.
On the nose, Old Fitzgerald Fall 2023 displays some caramel corn-like notes and a quickly building stone fruitiness that is rather inviting. I’m getting a little vanilla buttercream and some barrel char, along with flashes of clove and nutmeg. All in all, pretty classic Heaven Hill profile here.
On the palate, this displays significant caramel and a lot of sweetness. That sense is amplified by a notable thick and quite viscous texture, even in comparison with other entries in this series–this is very mouth coating. It displays notes of peach-infused black tea, citrus, cinnamon and vanilla along with the caramel, in addition to somewhat spicy black pepper, which is a little less common in these wheated bourbons. The barrel char likewise comes through with roasty assertiveness, making for a profile that is sweet and roast-forward, with those fruity and caramelized flourishes.
All in all, this isn’t necessarily the most complex or unique of these Old Fitzgerald releases, though it does provide a large volume of flavor and is not at all shy about doing so. Easy to enjoy and easy to share, this is among the most crowd-friendly batches that the series has seen in recent memory.
Distillery: Heaven Hill
City: Bardstown, KY
Style: Wheated Kentucky straight bourbon
ABV: 50% (100 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $109 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.