Tasting: 4 Suntory Anniversary Whiskies from Yamazaki and Hakushu

When it comes to the world of Japanese whisky, two things are largely true: They are beloved by the world whiskey cognoscenti, but still largely a mystery to the bourbon-chugging rank and file. Even the industry’s largest and most muscular global brands, like those owned by Suntory, are still a question mark in the minds of so many American consumers. I know this is true even for many spirits writer, because even I have relatively little actual experience in the Japanese whisky world. In comparison with the array of products I’ve tried from say, Scotland, my knowledge of Japan’s whisky producers is truly a drop in the bucket.

What better time, then, to get acquainted with some of the flagship brands on the shelf than when Suntory–which merged with Jim Beam to become Beam Suntory back in 2014–happens to be celebrating its 100 year anniversary? Through a stroke of fortune, 2023 actually represents a big, round number for more than one Suntory brand. Yamazaki will indeed be a century old, founded by Shinjiro Torii back in 1923. But the Hakushu brand is simultaneously celebrating its own 50th anniversary at the same time.

To do so, both brands have put some fresh packaging on their flagship, 12-year-old single malt whiskies. Yamazaki has likewise released an all-Mizunara oak anniversary edition of their luxe 18-year-old single malt, while Hakushu has created a new product in the form of Hakushu 18 YO Peated Malt Anniversary Edition. I happen to have samples of all four on hand, so let’s get to tasting and see how these classic Japanese malts measure up.

Yamazaki 12 YO Anniversary Edition

ABV: 43% (86 proof)
MSRP: $185

The flagship Yamazaki single malt is not exactly a cheap bottle, though it feels plenty affordable in comparison with the orders of magnitude higher asking price for the 18 year old malt. It carries a slightly elevated strength of 86 proof, and employs some use of the rare and highly sought-after Japanese Mizunara oak, though I don’t believe this brand is entirely matured in that oak. I would expect that it is either finished in that oak, or some casks matured in Mizunara are blended into the product to achieve the desired profile.

On the nose, this one is warm and inviting, with honey and layers of fruit evoking pear and apricot in particular. On the palate this is distinctly toasty, with spicy oak highlights that suggest cardamom buns. There are hints of caramelized sugars, cinnamon, cardamom, spiced pear and notable woodiness, with oak character that comes through in a pleasantly prickly, spice-heavy way. In comparison with the Hakushu 12 Year, it’s significantly more warm and oak driven, as well as reading sweeter and richer. Barrel characteristics are definitely meant to be a bigger part of the profile of this Suntory whisky.

Hakushu 12 YO Anniversary Edition

ABV: 43% (86 proof)
MSRP: $185

In comparison with the Yamazaki brand, the Hakushu distillery describes itself as more “verdant” and reflective of the distillery’s natural terroir, “nestled deep in Mt. Kaikomagatake.” The distillery is also noted for its use of peat in the Scottish style in some of its malts, which is sure to contribute a distinct flavor profile. As the company puts it, “our blenders work with peat, while softening the palate using the exceptional mountain water of the area, filtered through ancient granite rocks. This creates a fresh and gentle smoky single malt whisky.” This flagship bottle is also at 43% ABV (86 proof)

On the nose, Hakushu 12 is notably lighter and fresher in profile than the Yamazaki 12. It is redolent in notes of grass, pear, green apple, light honey, and slight bready or biscuit tones. Any peat character in this flagship is extremely mild and easy to miss for those used to the more bombastic style in scotch whisky, contributing more earthy tones than anything that feels like outright smokiness. On the palate, you get honey and sweet grassy/herbal tones, though it then transitions into pepper, anise and something reminiscent of the earthy “spice” of oats or unmalted barley in Irish single pot still whiskey. Somewhat watery in texture, it unsurprisingly carries very little ethanol heat.

Yamazaki 18 YO Mizunara Anniversary Edition

ABV: 48% (96 proof)
MSRP: $1,500

Whereas the flagship Yamazaki 12 is aged in a variety of different casks, the Anniversary Edition of Yamazaki 18 YO has been matured exclusively in the rare and exceedingly expensive Japanese Mizunara oak, known for its distinct flavor. The company notes that it “meticulously selected malt whiskies all aged for a minimum of 18 years in solely Mizunara casks” for this centennial selection.

On the nose, this Suntory whisky is immediately distinctive and unusual. Its oak spice and sweetness take on a very interesting, eccentric dimension–I’m getting honeycomb candies and toffee, with a whole array of baking spice that touches on cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and black pepper. At the same time, it also suggests peach, spiced pear and white chocolate, with a musty, oaky earthiness permeating the nose as well. On the palate, the flavors continue to be unique: I’m getting unexpected strawberry fruit and sangria, along with honey, musty oak and sweet mulling spices. There is some mild tannin, and ethanol is still well hidden, with flavors increasingly transitioning into dried fruit (sultanas), coconut and spice. All in all, it’s a really fascinating dram, and a good opportunity to taste the concentrated flavor of Mizunara on its own, which isn’t exactly easy to do.

Hakushu 18 YO Peated Malt Anniversary Edition

ABV: 48% (96 proof)
MSRP: $1,200

This new 18-year-old expression of Hakushu wears its peat influence much more prominently in the name, so we can no doubt expect it to be a much bigger component of the flavor profile in this bottle. The company notes that it “is made up of carefully selected malt whiskies all aged for a minimum of 18 years in various casks, created in honor of Suntory Whisky’s centenary.”

On the nose, Hakushu 18 YO Peated Malt first displays honey and malty sweetness, into modest peat character. There’s some delicate tropical fruitiness, with modest smokiness and mild earthiness, with traces of cassia. The toasted malt is a nice component, in a nose that is overall pretty sweet, and it’s likewise nice that the peated malt really isn’t a show-stealer here. On the palate, this is quite sweet, in an herbal dimension, and again not so much overtly “smoky” as it is sweetly vegetal. Still, there is a gentle smoke here, much more delicate than the bruisers one typically associates with classic Islay scotches. Here, a malt syrup sweetness combines with citrus and maritime complexity. More so than in the Yamazaki 18 YO, one also feels more of the corresponding bump in both flavor intensity and heat in this release–this feels like a sturdy dram.

All in all, this was a pleasure to taste four Japanese malt whisky drams that are all so very distinct from each other. Who knows what the next 100 years will bring for these brands?

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.