How Chefs and Artisans Are Elevating the Lowly Dinner Plate
Savvy restauranteurs are getting dishy with the dishes
Photos by Marshall GordonReading the menu at a restaurant has become much more than scanning a list of dishes. In addition to ingredients there is a list of names; sometimes it’s the names of staff, sometimes it’s the names of farms. And increasingly, it’s the name of the person who made the plates.
No, it’s not just another way Portlandia skits are mimicking reality. Chefs across the country are taking a look at mass-produced generic plates and chucking them for pieces they feel more accurately reflect the level of care and consideration that goes into what’s placed upon them.
It’s people like Kristi Borrone, who from 2010 to 2013 ran the restaurant Station 1 in Woodside, California. “It’s amazing how difficult it can be to figure out what plates you’re going to use for your restaurant. For us it was really important. We wanted to find something that our guests could connect to,” Borrone says.
Everything Borrone and her staff made in house was from scratch -“we didn’t open a can for anything” – so it was important to her to take their handmade food and put it on handmade plates.
She found San Francisco-based Lisa Neimeth, a ceramicist who describes her work as being pieces that appear to be fine art but are actually “highly functional,” and approached her about making every plate Station 1 would use. The initial order was nearly 500 plates.
“And they pretty much gave me full license to do what I wanted. They wanted the base color all to be white, but other than that, just anything I wanted. Every single plate was different,” says Neimeth.
Of course, they weren’t the same white one thinks of when thinking of a white dinner plate. And, Neimeth’s plates are rolled out by hand, each wholly its own with stamps and whorls and tiny imperfections.
“People just fell in love with her work. I mean, they enjoyed their meal but they fell in love with that part of the experience,” Borrone says. Although Station 1 has closed, Borrone is working to open another restaurant, Kristi Marie’s, and will still be using some of Neimeth’s work.
Some might think it’s silly – putting this much thought into what food gets set upon – but for chefs like Borrone and Portland, Oregon’s Jenn Louis, plates are where everything begins. Louis, author of the recently released cookbook Pasta by Hand and owner of Sunshine Tavern and Lincoln Restaurant, says even a slight chip is enough to send a piece of porcelain to the bin.
“If a plate goes out that has a chip in it, we’re saying what’s on the plate doesn’t matter,” Louis says. For her, investing in plates became a priority that only became more apparent after she met Austin, Texas-based ceramicist Keith Kreeger.
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