7.5

Schlafly Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale Review

Schlafly Non-Alcoholic Pale Ale Review
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Every January, the inboxes of drink writers flood with the inevitable inundation of non-alcoholic pitches for Dry January, which tend to get more outlandish and impractical on a yearly basis. But there are still the occasional ones that make me perk up, particularly when a venerable craft brewery makes its first entry into the non-alcoholic beer world. I’m likewise a little bit more inherently curious if that beer in question is one that runs counter to the prevailing sentiment in the industry, and it’s safe to say that Schlafly’s new non-alcoholic take on their flagship Pale Ale qualifies on that front.

To start with, this just isn’t a beer style where you’re often seeing any non-alcoholic variant, certainly not in 2024. Schlafly Pale Ale is practically a living fossil in the modern beer world, a malt-forward English pale ale supported by lightly floral and herbal English hops. This style of beer can barely be said to still exist at all in the American market even in its full-ABV form, not when the rank and file craft beer drinker is looking to cram as much sugar-laden, fruit-infused IPA down their gullet as possible. In non-alcoholic form? I can’t really think of a single comparable product.

“Pale Ale was the beer that started it all for us back in 1991, so it only made sense to offer a non-alcoholic option for a brew that’s familiar and still resonates with our core consumers today,” said CEO David Schlafly in a statement. “Our customers have come to expect quality, classic styles from our beers, and we’re putting that same dedication to our non-alc category.”

So too does the company reportedly rely on an atypical method for brewing their NA pale ale, though it doesn’t reveal exactly what that process entails. Many modern NA craft beers are made via dealcoholization, the gentle removal of alcohol post-fermentation. Brewers at Schlafly, on the other hand, believe that process “strips away some flavor compounds alongside alcohol” and are instead using a brewing process that does not involve dealcoholization. Presumably, this means they’re using something like arrested fermentation to conduct a short fermentation process leaving the final figure less than .5% ABV, or potentially some new proprietary process. The latter would be nothing new for the wild west that is the non-alcoholic beer market, where quality control inconsistency and a wide array of pasteurization methods revolving around unknown “proprietary techniques” have become a common theme, and one of the segment’s biggest challenges.

Regardless, with that said, let’s get to tasting this unusual non-alcoholic take on Schlafly’s classic English pale ale.

On the nose, the thing that stands out in this pale ale is toasty, biscuity malt impressions. There’s definitely a “malt tea” type vibe, pressing into more doughy territory with dark toasty bread crust and a little bit of nuttiness as well. Hop impressions are more difficult to find here, which is to be expected on some level for the style, but it could probably use more hop presence in order to get the impression of “pale ale” across more clearly.

On the palate, toasted malt again reigns supreme, but the interesting aspect of this beer is its surprising dryness. Much malt-forward NA beer has a tendency to run toward considerable sweetness, with heavy Grape Nuts-esque maltiness, but this one stays quite dry and subtle. Hops are minimal on the palate, with flashes of floral and herbal tones, giving way to more essence of toasted bread. The dryness of it, however, makes for an NA beer that is extremely easy drinking.

All in all, this is intriguing. There’s nothing unpleasant about the profile, but simultaneously I’m not sure there’s quite enough to grab ahold of the drinker’s imagination, and I could use more English hop balance in the flavor profile. Its drinkability, on the other hand, is extremely high, making this an NA brew that you can down pretty effortlessly, which isn’t always something you can say for malt-forward styles. At the very least, Schlafly has stuck a claim into a subgenre that is almost entirely their own.

Distillery: Schlafly Beer (Saint Louis Brewery)
City: Saint Louis, MO
Style: Non-alcoholic pale ale
ABV: Less than .5%
Availability: 12 oz cans


Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.

 
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